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Category Archives: About Your Pet

Cropping Your Dogs Ears

Many people have an opinion about cropping your dogs ears. Some say it is cruel and not necessary, others will tell you the exact opposite. The best way to make the best decision for you and your dog is to do your own research and make an educated decision. 

At home we have a Cane Corso named Bourbon, when we got him we were told we had to make the decision to crop his ears or not by 10 weeks old. 

We had been told it wasn’t necessary, we didn’t really know much about the process and before we knew it 10 weeks old came and went and we never did his ears. 

Later we learned some challenges dogs can have by not getting their ears done. For example, other dogs use their ears as handle bars to pull them down during play time. If you are only going to have one dog it may not be to much of a concern, but if you will have multiples it is something to consider. 

Why would that be a cancer? When dogs of this size are playing they can get a little rough, its completely normal. Unfortunately if the dogs ears are intact and they are used as handle bars it is very easy for them to tare. Once that happens it is very painful for your dog and it is not something that can be fixed. 

The other thing to consider is ear infections. When a dog has intact ears they can hold moisture under them, so during bath time or play time outside in the wet weather if water gets under the ear it can get trapped there and cause ear infections. One your dog gets an ear infection it becomes prone to them for life. If you live in wooded areas, ears are a great hiding place for tics as well. 

When we got Bourbon we lived in the city and we had an older mastiff, so rough play and some of the other hazards that come with intact ears weren’t really so much of a concern. 

We have been lucky with Bourbon, overall his ear heath has been really good, we take extra precaution during bath time not to get water in his ears and we teat for tics throughout the year. 

Recently we adopted a Dogo Argintino, she is a 13 week old bundle of joy that was surrendered to a rescue by a breeder because she was deaf. Again we are faced with the decision to leave her ears intact or to get them cropped. We got her at 10 weeks old, and since Bourbon I am much more educated about the guardian breeds and know what they need and what to expect while raising one. 

This is Carhartt, at 13 weeks old she weights 38lbs, she is very affectionate, and although she’s deaf and there are many challenges with a deaf dog, her training and development is coming along nicely. 

Carhartt is different from Bourbon, her inner ears are always getting build up, even though we try to keep them clean. 

She also likes to play rough and is grabbing at Bourbons ears all the time, in turn he does the same to her.

I contacted a registered breeder to get some more info about the hygiene needs of a Dogo and he recommended cropping and recommended a place for us to take her if we decided to go through with it. 

I also learned that cropping can be done after 10 weeks old, it is just a different process. After 10 weeks of age the cartilage starts to harden so if you crop a puppies ears they will have to be stitched and glued to a foam piece depending on length and kept like that for a few weeks until the stitches dissolve and the glue naturally pulls away from the foam. 

With an educated decision and wanting what was best for our puppy we have decided to make the appointment and go through with the process. 

Below I will walk you though the experience step by step as we experienced it in hopes to give you a better understanding of whats involved and what it is to get your dogs ears cropped. 

Something to keep in mind. Not all vets do these procedures and some places come recommended by breeders. If cropping is something you want to do reach out to a local breeder and ask them where they go and what their suggestions are. 

The Process

We live in Innisfil Ontario, the breeder we spoke too recommended a place in Tottenham Ontario to do the ear cropping. 

When we called to inquire about the process they were very friendly. They asked for the breed and the dogs age, and with that they were able to give us a quote for the cropping and advise on the process. 

For Carhartt’s age and weight they Quoted $450 for the cropping. We would bring the puppy in at 11am on the day of the appointment and would be able to pick her up at 3pm that same day. To do the cropping they use needles to insert freezing into her ears so that she doesn’t feel anything. The puppy is also put under general. When you bring your dog in to get any procedure that involves putting the dog under all bets will ask if you want blood work done to test for allergies to the anesthetic. It is usually at a cost of $100-125, and it up to you if you want to take the extra step to insure their heath. 

When they crop the ears they can do many different looks depending on what you want. 

The examples above are on pitbulls, the styles they illustrate are the ones you can choose from when you go to get your dog done. Once you have chosen your style the vet is able to draw out the cut lines on the ears so you can see what shape with will be when they are done. There are tons of profile picture out there online of different cropped ears, you can bring a picture in to the vet to show them exactly what you are looking for if that is something you want to do as well. 

The battle crop; is typically for working dogs, it keeps their ears from being torn while herding live stalk or working in the fields with their handlers. If you do a battle crop your are basically taking the ears right down to the head, there is not much of them left. 

Short crop; will give you a bit more of the ear, it is still very short, so keep that in mind if you are considering this crop.

Show crop; the show crop is the one most breeder recommend and do for their own dogs. If you are cropping because of concerns of ear infections and tearing then this is the crop I was told would be the best to do. The show crop does give your dog a lot more of their ear compared to the others, they still stands up like they are sopose to, and they do look very handsome on the dog. The show crop is the one we have ultimately decided on.

Log crop; this crop is more typical in Great Danes and Dobermans, as you can see from the example it can be done on other breeds it just isn’t something you often see. 

Cropping Day

As most of us know, exercise and mental stimulation is one of the key factors to reducing stress and anxiety in your dog, so Carhartts day started with puppy class. This gave her the opportunity to play and work and meet new people and puppies. A key factor in her development is lots and lots of socializing. 

Puppy class is only 30min long, to be honest you can’t really expect much more out of a puppy at 13weeks then that. The class started at 10 am, and the facility we go to Working K9 is only 15min away from where we are taking the puppy to get her ears done at 11am. Kind of perfect if you ask me. 

The puppy was out cold on the way to the appointment, its to be expected, she usually terrorizes the house for about 30min to an hour then finds a spot for a nap before she does it all over again. What a life this puppy has…

We got to the appointment in good timing and brought her in to meet the vet and the people at Pyne Hills Veterinary. The process was pretty quick, I got to speak with the vet about the length of ears we wanted and the process before they took Carhartt. The vet was more then happy to answer all my questions and was able to show me the cut lines using a marker mark on her ears. I was a little nervous, had a hard time leaving her, but the whole process was only going to take a few hours and I would have her back before I knew it.

The Pick Up

At about 2:40pm I go the call that she was ready. The ear cropping went well and they told me she was very good and was a champ about the whole thing. 

When she came out with her little cone on her head I was so happy to see her, and instantly concerned about how a puppy her age was going to deal with that for a couple weeks while the stitches healed. 

Because of the length that we chose for her ears she didn’t need to have the sponge between the ears. That was one thing I was pleased about, it was one less thing for me to be concerned about as she is such an active puppy.  

After she came out the girl at the front desk was able to walk me through the after care for Carhartt. I was given antibiotics and pain killers for her for the next few days. I was then walked through what to expect for the next few days and what to look out for. 

The stitches in her ears are one continuos stitch, because of this we need to be very careful they don’t get ripped or cut from her playing or scratching. The stitches are also dissolvable, the advantage to that is that we wont need to go back to the vets to have them removed, the stitches will slowly dissolve as her ears heal. The challenge with these types of stitches is that you have to keep them dry, you don’t want to get them wet and start to dissolve sooner then they should. 

Getting Her Home

When we got her home she was still pretty sleepy from the drugs she got at the vets. They do put them under sedation for the procedure. 

She was good in the car, slept the whole way home, and then slept for a bit when we got home. She was super cuddly and just wanted to be with us at first. 

After her nap she was back to her playful self. Since we have another dog at home the cone does double duty, it stops the puppy from scratching her stitches and it also protects her against play time. 

The Healing Process

The puppy has been doing well over the first couple days. She gets her pain killer in the morning and antibiotics twice a day. She has been a babe with taking her meds, she hasn’t given me any issues. 

Her appetite has remained the same and hasn’t gotten an upset stomach at anytime from the procedure or the pills. The aftercare list we were given from the vets suggests to keep the cone in for 7-10 to protect the stitches. We did notice after a few days she started to get really wrestlers with the cone, she was moving around a lot a night when she was trying to get comfortable to sleep, and at one point she managed to get out of the cone and run around the house with it. I have no idea how that happened, I wish I witnessed it.

We noticed almost right away some dry blood on her ears from the procedure. We wanted to clean it, but there was  the concern that the stitches would dissolve if we used water to clean them. One of her ears was worse then the other. After 5 days we took some q-tips with a bit of water and tried to clean around the stitches and get some of the dried blood out. It was a challenge with the puppy as she didn’t want to be still, so we did what we could without irritating her ears.

Cone on her head or no cone on her head she was determined to be a puppy. She got into things, tried to play hard with Bourbon, she even somehow crawled under the deck and got stuck… It has been a challenge for sure. By day 6 she had some how completely busted the cone and broke it off her head. It was beyond repair  and we had no choice but to take it off early. She of course was a much happier puppy, she was able to sleep through the night and stopped walking into things. The vet suggested 7-10 days with the cone on, so really she only busted out of it a bit early. 

Her ears are healing well and they look great, the vet really did a fantastic job. 

Her stitches have held up pretty good so far, we haven’t had any issues. We have noticed a lot of crusted fluid and blood left from the procedure and healing, but we have some more time to wait before we can bath her and clean all that up.

Throughout this process she has gained 6lbs as she is a growing puppy. Her eating habits remain healthy, and over all she seems unbothered by her ears being stitched and healing. She did spend some time trying to scratch, but we noticed that more when she had the cone on. Since it has been removed she hasn’t bothered much with her ears, and hasn’t been scratching at them. 

Conclusion 

Overall we are happy with the result. It’s great to be able to clean her ears properly without the concern of infection. The crop itself was well done and the size is suited for her breed and her facial structure. As she grows,  the ears will start to sit up more  when her head grows and the muscles in her face develop and get stronger. The vet said it can take up to 2 months for the ears to completely stand up properly and take their full shape. 

I really thought there would be issues with them staying up while healing because they were not taped or glued, and as you saw in her before pic she had really large floppy ears. Throughout her healing they really didn’t move much. There was a time or two where one would flip straight up, but it always laid back down flush to the top of her head. 

Carhartt is a happy and healthy puppy. Her development is coming along well. Personally I did have a hard time cropping her ears. I know it was suggested by a Breeder and a trainer experienced with the breed, but to put a puppy through that seems excessive to me. Seeing her throughout the process still being super playful and no further health concerns, my mind is more at ease. 

Would I do it again? It all depends. Every dog is different. For Carhartt her ears were already troublesome as a puppy collecting tons of dirt and moisture in her ears. A life of chronic ear infections is painful and irritating for the dog and can be expensive for the owner. We didn’t want that for Carhartt. 

If you have any further questions about the procedure or the healing process don’t hesitate to leave a comment below and we can chat about it…. 

 

Dog training in your home

 


Training your dog should start from the moment you get your puppy home. Now I’m not talking about a boot camp, but I am talking about building structure and consistency as soon as possible. 

All breeds of dogs have different needs. Some breeds need stricter rules and boundaries then others. But there isn’t a single dog out there that wouldn’t benifit form obedience and training at home.

There seems to be this thought that your toy breeds don’t need training, it’s excusable when they bark and act irratically,  cute when they growl or act possessive, and part of the day to day routine for them to be the boss of the household. It’s this mentality that is the result of more reported attacks by toy breeds then there is by the guardian breeds like mastiffs and pit bulls. 

Reports like this shouldn’t happen. As a dog owner you should be taking responsibility to train and raise a well mannered and obedient dog, no matter what the breed. 

From experinace working with the SPCA as a partnership home, it make a world of difference in the home when you have instilled a routine and obedience in your dogs. When we originally got the dogs they typically were problem pets, pets people didn’t take the time to train and as a result developed behavioural issues that made them impossible to live with. At this time their owners forfitted them to the SPCA to be rehomed. This is sad, so much of this issue could have been avoided by training from day one. 

What are the basics that will make a difference? 

  • Sit
  • Heel
  • Stay
  • Come 
  • Bed 
  • Yes and no
  • Ok – as a release command 

These are the most basic of the commands that will  help you create a balanced and happy home for you and your dog. Dogs like obedience, it is not mean to put your dog in a down stay while you are having dinner and then releasing them with the command ‘ok’ when your done. In fact your dog is super excited that you gave them a job to do, and even happier to come to your for praise for a job well done when you have released them from their duties. 

Before I get into some tips to help you introduce these training commands to your dog I want to bring up an important issue. Know your breed! All breeds have different needs and concerns.  For example, my 5lb toy poodle is well versed in the commands I have listed above and that’s as far as the training has gone. For a toy poodle, that’s all she needs and all I need to have balance with her. On the other hand my 140lbs Cane Corso is trained in protection sports and has a very strict routine to keep him in check for him to understand I’m Alfa and he’s not.  Its a lot of work, and it’s a daily job, but very necessary. The ulternitive if I chose not to put that level of obedience on him could be dangerous. 

Tools you will need;

  • Leash
  • Collar for tension ( prongs are not necessary ) 
  • Patience 
  • Time
  • Treats for food rewards 

              

 

Sit 

Your training language should be simple and consistent. By doing this you will make your training routine simple for you and your puppy. Sit is one of the foundation commands, typically you want your dog to sit and stay while you prepare their means and then tell them ‘ok’ when they can go eat. While on your walks you want them to sit at a heel everytime you stop. And another great time to ask them to sit is before they are receiving toys, chews, rewards, anything they are to wait for. Nothing is free for your dog, if they want anything from you they have to work for it.

To initiate the sit you will want to start with a callar that can be used to create tension, similar pull like a chain choker, but I use a nylon version. The collar should fit so that it is up at the base of the head, keep in mind a developing puppy will change sizes a few times before they are fully matured. Once the collar is in place put on the leash. Oh and make sure you have treats on hand, food reward along with positive reinforcement is the best remedy for a good training session. 

Next, training sessions with a puppy shouldn’t be more the 15-20 min at a time when your first starting, reason being, the puppy will have limited attention span for training. You also want training to be fun and exciting at first. This will create the foundation for soild positive reinforcement training. 

All dogs need to get used to their handlers handleing them. When teaching position based commands you will have to use your hands with leash pressure to guide them to the position you want them to be in. Once compete, mark it with a ‘yes’ and either food or praise reward. 

For a sit you will want the dog at the heel position. Typically that is to the left side of you. With leash in the right hand you will want to put slight leash pressure in a upward motion while using your left hand, sliding it gently down their back pushing their bottom down the the ground. Very important, you don’t want to choke the dog so don’t pull on the leash so tight as to do that, you also don’t want to force the dogs bum down to the ground and damage bones or hips. 

While you are doing the motions of the sit, tell your pup ‘sit’. As soon as your dog completes the task say ‘yes’ to mark the command complete and then reward. 

Repeat this a few times with your dog, and then release them from the training position with the word ‘ok’ to go and play and or give them lots of love for the training session. 

The first few times you may not get your pup to sit perfect everytime, that’s why I mentioned patience. Stay consistent and it will come. Once your dogs starts to learn sit, then you will be able to use the corrective word ‘no’ before you make it happen with leash pressure and your hand placement when they choose not to listen to you. Trust me, that will happen more then once. 

The repeat of command, ‘yes’ and ‘ok’ before reward will start to condition your dog to very specific responses. The words yes, no, and ok will be used for every training command you give. 

Heel 

Heel is one of those commands that will make walking your dog way more enjoyable. There is nothing worse then walking a dog that is pulling you all over the place. On your walks you want your dog at your side, only leaving it when you get them to the spot where you want them to ‘get busy’ as I call it, otherwise knows as going to the bathroom. 

The process for training this command is very similar to the sit. You will need their leash and collar and some treats for rewards. When ready to give the heel command you will want your leash in you right hand and with your left hand guide the puppies bum toward your left leg putting them in the desired position. Once complete mark it with a ‘yes’ and the give food reward ‘ok’. 

Little trick, you want eye contact when training, it creates focus between dog and handler. To train this, everytime you give a command and mark it with a yes, before you give food, bring the treat to your mouth and then say ‘ok’ as you bring the reward down to the dog and give it to them. This will also create a conditioned response for the dog to look up at you for your next command anticipating the ok and the food reward. Focus focus focus…

The beginning stages of the heel command is just to teach your dog that heel means to be at your side, and when your stoped they are to sit. So the next stage of the heel is to tell your dog to sit after they are in the position of the heel. Eventually through repetition when you are at a stand still and you say ‘heel’ your dog will know to come to your left side and sit. Repeat the heel at your side and sit command until you feel your dog is really grasping the concept before you add motion to it.

Adding motion to your heel. Motion is harder to control then a sit or a down stay. So training the heel while walking can be challenging, distractions such as other dogs and noises can easily pull your dogs attention away from you and into a curios pull or excited behaviour. This can also be call drive. Drive is good, drive is useful when training, but you want the drive to be focused to you. 

While training the heel in motion I like to use treats held with my right hand in the spot I want my dog to be looking at encouraging the pup to be at my side looking up at me. When I get good focus they get the treat. When I don’t I correct with ‘no’ and then regive  the command of ‘heel’ as soon as the dog is back in focus and at a heel I mark with a yes and food reward. 

I like to build drive while training. So after a few seconds of a really focused heel I will give the ‘ok’ command letting the dog know it’s released from the command and then get excited with the pup and do a bit of play. 

Down

Down is another great foundation command to teach your pup. A down stay in their ped while you have company over or are eating dinner can make a big difference in some of the chaos that can happen in the home. For my Corso, if I’m eating super he’s at a down stay on his bed till we are cleaning up, if people are over and I don’t want him stressing out traveling from person to person trying to figure things out I send him to his bed and put him in a down stay. He is more then happy to stay there as long as I tell him to be because he knows at the end he will get treats and cuddles for being a good boy. Down stay is his bed is also great when your having family watching a movie on the couch. Nothing worse then trying to fit a few people and 140lb dog on one couch. Now he is on the couch with me sometimes, not to say he is always sent away, but everything is on my terms and not his. This is one of those know your breeds situations, a golden retriever won’t challenge you for Alfa in the home because you let him up on the couch or sleep on the bed, most guardian breeds like a mastiff are very strong minded and need a strong leader, if you don’t take control, they most certainly will. 

Down is a command that is usually pretty simple to teach as you can use treats or food as liuer to the ground. Again to start this command I would get my pup into a heel, get them into a sit and praise focus, then I would give the command of ‘down’ then take the treat and liuer the puppy the the ground, only when the pup has his bottom completely down do you give the treat. Don’t offer it if he has his front down but his butt up in the air, they like to do that at first. If your pup doesn’t go down, slide the treat across the ground a bit forcing the dog to crawl forward a bit, therefore tricking them into a down, as soon as they are down mark it with ‘yes’ then ‘ok’, gove the food reward.   

After a few times of using the liuer technique try giving the command of ‘down’ from a standing position with your pup at a heel. If they don’t follow through with the command, follow up with a ‘no’ and then regive you’re command of ‘down’.if you’re dog doesn’t respond at that point use leash tension to put them in a down. Stand back up and as long as your dog stays on a down you can offer the food reward. If they continue to get up everytime you get up, then using your foot, put the leash under it, guide the dog into a down and hen out the leash tight underbelly your foot. If the dog tries to get up, he will end up correcting himself with the leash tension forcing him back into a down. When the dog stays at the down and gives your focus then mark it ‘yes’ and give food reward ‘ok’. 

Stay 

This command is best taught after you have started to get some headway on the training. Stay is a command that can take a bit of time for them to catch on too especially since your pup just wants to follow you around everywhere. 

When starting to train stay keep your dog within leash length. You don’t want to be walking away from your dog off leash and then they decide to take off somewhere. At this time your dog may or may not know the command come, and is certainly too curious about the world to care that your calling him. 

To start the command get your pup at a heel and then make sure they are at a sit. Mark it with ‘yes’ and then say ‘stay’. Take a step forward and stand in front of your pup, still holding the leash, Tell them they are a good boy or girl, then return to your dog. Once again at a heal mark it with ‘yes’ and then food reward. You will then repeat the process. That’s a perfect world that it will work like that right away. If your dog gets up during anytime in the process you will mark that with ‘no’ pit your dog back in position and start again. Never finish a training session without finishing a command. If you are working on stay, don’t just stop because the pup doesn’t get it, you will set yourself back. Complete the heel and sit, even if you give the stay command and just take two steps in any direction away from the pup and they don’t move, that can be considered success. 

As you work with your pup you will increase the distance and the length of time they are at a stay, you may also introduce distractions with other dogs and noises. Adding more challenge can be fun for you and your dog… and remember all training is an amazing bonding experiance for you and your dog. 

Come

You have been working on the sit, your dog is getting better with a heel, and his stay for the most part is consistent… we can start the ‘come’ command. Again until you are more confident with your dogs level of obedience you will want to keep your dog on a leash for this training. A great tool that I have used is a long lone for outdoor training. Just keep in mind, if you have a larger more powerful dog, if your far enough away and they decide to bolt, they may be able to take you off your feet with the momentum they can get from a longer leed. It’s a true story, I know from experiance…

To start this command get your pup is a proper heel, at your side in a sit. You can do a come from a down stay or from a sit.    Once your dog is in the position you want them to be, give them the command ‘stay’, then holding the leash walk the leash length away, and face your dog, leave the dog at the stay for a moment, when you have focus give the command ‘come’. I usually use the dogs name first before the command, it’s a good habit to get into especially with the come command, just incase your in a situation where there are multiple dogs and somone yells come to their dog, you don’t want yours running off. You may have to entice the pup by showing him the treats you will give him when he comes, and as he comes to you encourage it positively by saying things like good boy, good boy. As soon as the dog is in front of you mark it with ‘yes’, ‘ok’ and then food reward. 

You want your dog straight in front of you when you are calling them to a come, when the come is complete you will also want them to sit in front of you with focus. 

Bed 

Sending your dog to bed is such an amazing thing. It’s my favourite command at home. I have mentioned a few reason already why and how I use the command. 

For the bed command, you will take the dog to the bed, once on the bed give the command ‘bed’ and take a step back, mark it with ‘yes’ and then praise them when they stay on the bed. Do this a few times so that your pup starts to acociate the action with the command. After this you can try the command with the dog at a heel and sending them to the bed, marking it with ‘yes’ when they do it and ‘ok’ before they can leave the bed and they get praised and given treats. 

At this point you have put alot of time and energy into training, you will start to notice your dog will catch onto things quicker and they will get more eager to learn and work for you. You may also notice your dogs behaviour is more level and that you have less issues at home. A dog with a job is a happy dog, a happy dog at home can make life a lot easier. 

 

The basic commands are part of your responsibility as a dog parent. Now there are exceptions to every circumstance, just as people have different personalities, so do dogs. You could have one dog that was super easy to train and a great companion, and then the next dog you get gives you a run for your money. If you are struggling with any training or behaviour issues don’t leave it, don’t convince yourself it’s just a puppy thing and they will grow out of it. Some things they will yes, but a bad behaviour not corrected is like telling the dog that behaviour is ok… 

if you find yourself having issues or a lot more questions as you start your training you can always leave me a comment I’m more then happy to offer any assistance I can. There are some things that will require extra assistance, and for those things I am a big supporter of taking your dog to a training camp. 

When choosing a training camp make sure you are sourcing out one that understand the needs of dog you have. For example, my Cane Corso trains for his competitions at a facility that trains police dogs. The trainers there have tons of experiance with guardian and working breeds and understand the level of obedience I need for bourbon to have him ready to compete. 

A toy breed or a dog with less training obstacles could gi to a more basic training camp like something you find at pets mart, your accomplishments there are simply to socialize and get to the basics. 

There is nothing wrong with finding yourself in a spot with training and your willing to reach out to someone for help if things aren’t going the way as planned. Your vet can be another great resource for information, they can usually suggest good places that they have gotten feedback about from other dog owners who have needed help. You can also talk to your breeder, many breeders show their dogs and have them in competitions to elevate their breeding lines. They should have some great tips for you and have some contact info of some training facilities that you can reach out too as well.

Good luck with all your training. I really hope you are able to enjoy the process. It really strengthens the bond between you and your dog. 

Separation Anxiety

You are getting ready to go to work like you do every morning, you have gone through the normal routine with your dog. He’s been let out, maybe had a walk and ate his breakfast. Everything is calm. Just before you leave you always give your dog plenty of cuddles and attention, you don’t want him to feel forgoten. And than you leave as he follows you to the door. By the time you get to your car you can hear the howling and barking begin, you sigh and wonder why he does this every time you leave….

You get a new dog, you do everything right, your taking them to puppy class, you socialize the dog, spend lots of time getting used to your routine and the neighbours kids. You have done everything right. When your home our pup is perfect, no accidents in the house,  he never gets into anything, and the pup is more than happy to lay on the floor next to the family when it’s movie time. To your surprise, every time you leave your house for the day and the pup is left home alone, you come home to a massive mess. The dog gets into the garbage, throws the couch pillows all over the floor, pooped on the front carpet and ate your favourite pair of running shoes. You ask yourself… why is he so bad!?

Separation anxiety is a condition that affects dogs of all sizes and many breeds. Most pet owners know of separation anxiety and many have faced the challenges it can create. What some dog owners may not realize is that this behaviour can be something you taught your dog without even realizing you did it.

The examples of separation anxiety I gave are just a sample of the types of behaviours you may see with separation anxiety. Some of the behaviour may be more severe in some dogs while others are a little more discrete. Either way, they are indications of the stress level your dog is facing when you leave them at home every day.

How does separation anxiety start?

Well one of the big one’s is a behaviour you create by the way you leave you your dog and how you act when you come home to them. When you first get a new puppy it is very important to condition them not to fret when you leave. You can do this by practicing leaving the pup for short periods of time randomly through the day, the time of day and the length of time you would leave the dog will need to vary. What you are than starting to teach the pup is that you will leave, but you will always come back.

A behaviour you want to refrain from doing yourself is getting your pup all excited and happy with cuddles right before you leave. When you do that you are leaving your dog in an elevated drive state, and they carry that level of drive while you are gone, eventually turning into destructive anxiety. And than when you come home, your so excited to see your pup you go to them right away and build up that drive all over again. It’s not good for your dog to do that to them.

Try something different, just as most things in their lives, there should be a routine and lots of obedience. When you are leaving for work for the day, if you must give cuddles and so forth do it about 30-40 min before you leave, this way your dog has time to calm down before you leave for work. And than as you are leaving don’t say anything at all, if your dog is laying down quietly on the floor, don’t disturb that, that’s a good thing, you are leaving your dog in a calm mental state, this will help minimize the anxiety. When you return home, do the same thing, don’t rush to your dog and get them all excited with cuddles and attention right away. Come in, take your shoes off call the dog to go out for this pee, and after about 30-4o min, than if you want to get them excited and happy and give them cuddles, go for it. By doing this you are using your dogs mental and emotional stability in a more positive way to avoid imprinting anxiety like reactions.

What if it’s passed this stage?

If you are dealing with a teenage or adult dog with this behaviour it can and will be much more challenging. The first step is going back to the basics with strict obedience. Dogs love obedience, well most dogs, small toy breeds are a whole other set of rules. Back to the basics of obedience is the beginning of rebuilding a strong foundation. A foundation that is about conditioning your dogs proper behaviours and asserting yourself as the alpha in the house.

At first you may feel there is a point of regression where the behaviours are almost getting worse, that can happen as your dog is adjusting to the new rules and obligations in the home. After that you will notice a pattern of two steps forward and one step back until finally your reach a point where your dog starts to fall into his new pattern of obedience, and obedience becomes part of their new routine and structure.

Be prepared, not all the behaviours may be corrected. Depending on how long these behaviours have been going on for, your dog may be imprinted with it’s behaviours. Not to say you won’t see some success, you just may not get all the success you were hoping for.

Don’t give up

Consistency is key. Asserting yourself as the alpha in the house through positive reinforcement will support your dogs needs of being part of a pack and their natural desire to serve. Dogs like to have a job, it is not mean to incorporate high level obedience in their every day lives.

As I have mentioned many times on this site, I have a Cane Corso, he is in high level obedience all the time. It wasn’t always like this, there was a time when Bourbon was confused about who the alpha was, I wasn’t inserting myself in the right way with him so he started to think that he ran the house. This confused him and frustrated him, he started to have bad separation anxiety, he was getting into things in the house, tearing up the couch, he ate the blinds one day, he used to go into our laundry and take all the socks. It was getting out of control.

I started high level obedience, and just as I said earlier, I noticed the behavior increasing a bit before it started to decrease to a more manageable way. I thought that letting him do what ever he wanted to do, and offer more love and support meant I was giving him a good life. I was wrong, my actions had the opposite effect, my dog was stressed out and unhappy.

Now in the home, obedience is a part of every aspect of his day. From a down stay in his bed while we are watching TV, to waiting to eat his food until I tell him it’s ok, to only entering the home when he is told to. High level obedience at all times. You may be thinking its a lot of work, and it is at first, it’s hard work for you and your dog. But than it becomes part of your routine, I use lots of positive reinforcement and food as part of my training. Bourbon loves training, he loves obedience, he loves the attention he gets from doing things right, he thrives off of it so much, he constantly wants to do the things I tell him to because he knows food or cuddles comes with it. He’s at the point now in his training that he looks for the next command, he wants to work all the time.


Since this new structure, he doesn’t eat the blinds or the laundry, his separation anxiety still exists but not even close to the extent that it was. He is so much calmer in the house, I could have him in a down stay in his bed and put my super on the table in front of him, I could leave the room and come back and he would still be in the bed and my food untouched. The obedience has been a major bonding exercise for Bourbon and I. I highly recommend it for your dog.

If you truly want to give your pet a forever home do it right. To many dogs end up in shelters because of errors we made when we first brought them home. Don’t get a dog unless you are prepared to put in the work. Its hard work at first but it’s well worth it in the end.

 

Sty’s on Your Dogs Eye Lids’

Sty’s on your dog are a thing. They can happen when there is some sort of infection in the eyelid glands. A red bump will develop on the eyelids or brow. Depending on the infection, one or more of these red bumps can develop. They can get pretty big too, Bourbon got one and within a couple days it tripped in size. Mind you he keeps rubbing his eye on everything he can, obviously that isn’t helping.

What can you do about the sty?

There are a few different things you can Do to take care of the sty;

  • Sty’s can pop on thier own
  • Treatment options
  • Essential oils can help

Sty’s healing on their own.

The sty really is an abscess to put it plainly. So, sometimes as it forms there will be a head on it, and other times it will self absorb as the source of the infection heals. If you see a head on the sty it is not suggested that you try and pop it yourself, or even pop it at all. If there is a head it can and will pop all on its own. As usual with most health concern with your dog it is best to consult your vet. They can assist you with treating the infection so that the sty can self absorb, or give you other options to take care of the sty.

There are a couple treatment options.

When you take your dog to the vet, they may want to do a culture swap to identify what bacterial infection your dogs eye. They then may suggest some things like a warm compress that your would apply to the eye daily for a lengthy of time of approx 15min.

Keep in mind with all treatment options that they sty can be very painful to your pet, and depending on the size and the infection your pup may react with a nip when you’re trying to touch it and examine it. Don’t be upset at them, they are just in pain.


Your vet may also prescribe an antibiotic eye drop to help with the infection and prompt the dissolve or busting of the sty. When you notice the sty starting to weep, try to keep on top of it and wipe away the goop coming out. If you notice that the drops aren’t helping after a couple days or that the infection sees to increase, your treatment plan may not be working and your should follow up with the vet.

Natural healing with essential oils.

Essential oils have taking the healing industry by storm over the last few years. Beware when using essential oils, not all oils are safe for your pet, some oils such as tea tree can be dangerous to their health. If you decide to use essential oils with your dogs be sure to make sure they are pure sourced and you know all ingredients if you decide to use oils blends.

Oils and blend that have been known to assist your pup are some of the following. Frankinsnece is a popular one for assistance with inflammation. Also if applied early enough Frankincense can help keep insect bites from getting inflamed and possibly help avoid an infection. Frankincense is a very prominent smell, not everyone likes it and you may find it overbearing. Don’t worry, there are some other options for you.

Lavender is a go too for many things, your dog is one of them. Lavender is also good for reducing inflammation, it can assist with reliving and reducing anxiety as well. Sometimes Bourbon stresses out when I have been gone to work all day, so when I’m joke at night, after his walk I’ll diffuse some lavender oil in the living room, helps both of us unwind.


Natural essential oils can be very potentant, when using it topically it is advised that you dilute it with something like a carrier oil such coconut oil. The benefits form doing that is that it reduces the potency as to not be overwhelming and the carrier oil also helps the skin slowly absorb the oils allowing them to be more effective. Next you will want to put your blend on a cotton swab before applying it to the effected area.

Side note, if you like in an area where you are worried about bug bites, get a class spray bottle, fill it with water and add a drop of wild orange, cinnamon, eucalyptus, rosemary and clove essential oils and use it as a natural bug sorry for you and your dog. I’m not at all suggesting to rely on this as sole protection from ticks and such, I still stress the use of monthly treatments for this. The essential oil mixture it to help repel some other insects that might bite your dog and cause inflammation or irritation in their skin.

If you decide you want to try essential oils, I get all my oils from dōTERRA, I’ll add a link at the bottom of this page for your to follow to see some of those products and prices, some oils can be found at your local health food store or pharmacy, but there are many that are hard to find. Before you buy some talk to your vet about the use of essential oils, they may suggest some allergy tests to make sure they aren’t allergic to the plant based of the oils you are thinking of using, and they may also be able to offer you some other great options and uses for the oils as well.

Don’t forget. Stay away from any oil or oil blends that include tea tree oil. They can be toxic to your dog if they ingest it.

SHOP HERE: If you are interested in shopping and learning more about essential oils.

 

 

Flea and Tick Season

Flea and tick season is a season that can be deadly to our furry friends if we are not proactive in getting them vaccinated and treated for these little bugs. 

When is flea and tick season?

Flea and Tick season usually starts around May and goes through until late fall. The worst time for Feas and Ticks is September, October, and November. So you want to start your treatment schedule early May, and you can stop the treatments once the ground starts to feeze and the tempurature is consistently below the freezing point. 

Whats the differance between fleas and ticks?

Fleas– These are an agressive breeding external parasite that plauges our companion pets. Fleas are a wingless insect that can jump up to two feet high and feed on blood. 

A flea infestation is swift and agressive. Fleas can live from as little as 13days to 12months, the scary thing about these insects is that during this time they can create millions of offspring. 

All of this can sound disturbing and can be grose to think about, but as a pet owner myself I know how important it is to know as much as possible about what can harm your furry friends. 

Good thing there are symptoms; there are things to look for when concered there may be an infestation brewing. 

  • These insects will be found close the the scalp, something to look for is droppings, it will look like dirt on the scalp.
  • Fleas lay eggs, sometimes you can find traces of white eggs 
  • The dog will be irritated. You will see scratching, licking and possible biting of the skin. Your pup may start to loose their hair and they can also show signs of allergic reaction and rash on the skin.

There can be complications when fleas start to reproduce and settle into the host, your dog. The fleas can spread to other parts of your home, they can fall off or jump off the animal onto carpet and other upholstery, waiting until they find another host. Incase you don’t remember, fleas feed on the blood of the host. With the ability to eat 15 times more in blood then their own body weight you can see how this may become a problem for your pet if the infestation goes unnoticed and continues to grow. Significant blood loss can happen over time, young puppies can be in serious risk if enfected, inadequate red blood cells from blood loss could be life threatening to the pup. Keep in mind as well, most preventitive treatments have age limitations on them, leaving puppies at serious risk. Be proactive pet parents and take steps to make sure your babes are safe.


Ticks– These insects are alot more difficult. They fall under the arachnids category. They too feed on the blood of the host like fleas, however unlike the fleas the host may not even know they are there. And worst their bites can transmit many diseases. If you are concered about the kinds of diseases the ticks can transmit you will need to ask your vet, the diseases they can transmit can vary by region, your vet will be well versed with what to expect in your area. 

Ticks transmit much like fleas, they come from outdoors in grass, wooded areas waiting for your dog to come in contact with them. They are a blood eater, they depend on it to survive. Once they come into contact with your dog the are usually the size of a pin head, once they inbed their heads into the skin of the host and start to gorge themsleves on blood they start to swell, when this starts to happen they can be fairly easy to see. 

You may be wondering where to look… Really you should look everywhere, but for the most part you will find ticks close to the head. They like to hide in warmer spots like under the ears and in the neck. I have seen some serious cases of tick infestation and it can be agressive. 

Just when you thought it cant get worse, it does. I mentioned the transmission of diseases, one of those diseases is Lyme disease. 

Whats Lime disease?

  • Lyme disease is a bacterial infection, this infection can not only infect your dog but it can also infect you. 
  • The deer tick is the most prevelant host for this disease.
  • When the infection occurs you may see symptoms like depression, swelling of lymph nodes. Your pup may show a loss for appetite, and you may also notice fever, swollen and painful joints, or worse kidney failure. 
  • Treatment for lyme disease is most effectively done by antibiotics
  • Some good news. Prompt and proper treatment should start to show some progress in your pet within 48hours 

Flea and tick treatments for your dog  

Flea and ticks require different course if treatments… 

Flea Treatments

When you suspect a potential flea infestation take your dog to the vet to confirm.  Because fleas can jump and hang out on carpets and other fabrics in the home, you will have to treat any other pets in the home along with the enviornment itself. Paying extra attention to the places the dogs spends most of his time, like his bed for example. 

Once a vet has confirmed if your dog has fleas they will start a treatment plan with you. The treatment plan can include a number of differnet things. Treatments will be differnet depending on the severity of the infestation. 

  • On the lite side, treatments can cover topical creams, shampoo, powders, and spreys for your pet. 
  • There may be need for a thorough cleaning of the house. This may include carpets, couches, bedding, drappery and so on. 
  • If the infection is severe, a spray or a fogger may be required, this sort of treatment will mean that the home will have to be evacuated during the treatment. It will only be temperary, but it is necessary. 
  • If you are noticing your dog is constantly geting infected with ticks when they go outside, you may need to do lawn treatments as well.  

Tick Treatments

When you find a tick on your pet you may feel the need to want to pull it out. Don’t panic. Take a deep breath and take it slow. Removing a tick requires care. There is risk involved in removing a tick, coming into contact with the ticks blood can potentially pass on infection to your pet, you can also get infected yourself. 

I found a 3 step process for removing ticks from your pet. If you are not comfortable with the removal, get your pet to the vet as soon as you can. 

Step1: Prepare with gloves, protect yourself from having direct contact with the tick and the infected area on your pet. Have a container of some sort handy to put the tick in once it is removed. The tick wont die if you throw it in the garbage, or down the toilet. Another reason you will want to keep the tick is incase you need it for testing to be sure it isn’t a carrier for any diseases, if it is, the tick sample will help your vet know what to do for treatments. Oh and it is recommended that it is a screw top, and that you put some rubbing alcohol in it.  

Step 2: Remove

  • Get some tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible
  • Using even pressure, holding steady, pull upwards to remove the tick
  • Place the tick into the jar with the rubing alcohol inside 
  • Steady and even pressure, be sure not to twist or jerk the tick. Parts may break off and be left in the pet. Or worse the tick spits out the blood it is gorging on pushing potential infectiong into your pet.
  • So no squeezing, no trying to forcefully break it off the skin… 

Step 3: Disinfect and Monitor, even though you were wearing gloves you will want to wash your hands well with soap and water. Sterilize the tweezers you used with a flame or rubbing alcohol. Monitor the bite spot, keep an eye out for redness or swelling in the bite area. If traces of possible infection start to show, bring your dog and the jar with the tick for evaluation as soon as you can. 

*** Again as a reminder, if you find a tick in your dog, yes it is important to move swiftly and have it removed, but if you are feeling unsure about doing it, be on the safe side and get your pet to the vet. ***

Prevention to protect and keep them safe

Some vets will recommend year around treatments for your dogs, it doesn’t hurt them and it makes sure they are covered. However if you only want to treat during peak season or when the threat is at its highest, then you will want to start treatments in May, and carry them through until the frost starts to set in, late November, early December. 

There are a number of preventative treatments you can use to help keep the babes safe. There are a variety of different companies that offer a range or treatment types. From collars to pills to liquid drops on the back of the neck on the scalp. Lets go over a few that are considered to be in the top 5. It is always a recomendation to talk to your vet about any treatments you may want to give your pet. An informed decission is the best one. So lets get into some preventative options and then you will have a direction to take when talking to your vet…

Frontline Plus 

   Frontline Plus for Dogs 45-88 lbs – PURPLE, 12 MONTH – $134.99

Frontline PLUS Purple for Dogs 45-88 lbs Recommended by veterinarians, Frontline PLUS Purple for Dogs 45-88 pounds is a powerful and easy-to-use formula designed to quickly and effectively kill fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. FRONTLINE Plus is specially formulated for dogs weighing 45-88 pounds. Available without a prescription, FRONTLINE Plus only needs to be applied once a month for thorough pest control. Flea life cycle. View larger . Tick life cycle. View larger . Quickly Kills Fleas, Ticks, and Chewing Lice This powerful formula kills up to 100 percent of existing fleas in the first 12 hours after application, and it continues to kill new fleas for at least one month afterward. FRONTLINE Plus prevents the development of new fleas by destroying flea eggs and larvae and by destroying adult fleas before they have a chance to lay eggs. FRONTLINE kills chewing lice and all four major ticks, including ticks that may carry Lyme disease, keeping both your pet and your family protected. Waterproof Formula Thanks to its waterproof formula, FRONTLINE Plus won’t rinse off when you give your dog a bath or when your dog goes for a swim. The active ingredient in FRONTLINE, fipronil, is stored in the natural oils in your dog’s coat, so your pet is sure to stay protected no matter how many puddles he or she tramps through. This FRONTLINE Plus product is EPA approved and registered, so it’s guaranteed to be the exact same product sold by your Veterinarian. Click here for more information on EPA-approved pet products. Package Contents Box includes three 2.68-milliliter tubes of FRONTLINE Plus for Dogs. Frontline PLUS Purple for Dogs 45-88 lbs Kills fleas, flea eggs, ticks, and chewing lice Fast-acting formula Includes 12 one-month applications Waterproof formula Easy-to-use applicator For dogs weighing 45-88 pounds Per Dose: $11.92 More Info Got Fleas? A product guide to flea and tick products. Flea Facts You Should Know Interesting flea facts to help your pets be pest free. Fleas: Understanding the Enemy All about fleas and prevention. Ticks Helpful information on ticks and your pets. FAQs about Fleas and Ticks FRONTLINE Plus for Dogs is Available In: Orange (0 – 22 pounds) Blue (23 – 44 pounds) Purple (45 – 88 pounds) Red (89 – 132 pounds) 3 month 6 month 12 month 3 month 6 month 12 month 3 month 6 month 12 month 3 month 6 month 12 month

Advantage II

 

12 MONTH Advantage II Flea Control for Extra Large Dogs (Over 55 lbs) – $111.99

Advantage II for Dogs provides dual protection against fleas and lice reducing annoying, itchy bites. Simple, monthly applications during warm weather months will get rid of fleas and help in the prevention of secondary problems like Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD). Advantage® II Benefits: Pet comfort Advantage® II kills fleas fast, through contact ? no biting required. This means there is less irritation and discomfort for your dog. Advantage® II also works in the prevention of Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD). Peace of mind Advantage® II provides multi-stage flea control effectively breaking all flea life-cycle stages for quick and lasting control of flea populations. Versatility Advantage® II?s topical formula works when wet, locks into the lipid (or fat) layer of the skin and remains effective for 28 days. Proven effectiveness Advantage® II is the number 1 selling flea-specific treatment in Canada and has confirmed efficacy after 30 million applications.1

Flea Away

  Flea Away for Cats & Dogs (100 Chewable Tablets) – $20.99

Flea Away is a vitamin complex that causes your pet to develop a natural repellent for fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. This keeps fleas off your dog or cat before they bite and find chemicals, like other flea repellents. With Flea Away your pet produces an odor (undetectable by humans) that keeps fleas away. It even remains effective after bathing or swimming. This chewable tablet is liver flavored so your pet will love it. 100 Chewable Tablets Liver flavored Repels for fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Repels before they bite

Seresto 

  Seresto Flea & Tick Collar for Large Dogs – $54.99

Seresto® is an easy-to-use, odorless collar that kills and repels fleas and ticks for 8 continuous months. It also aids in the treatment and control of sarcoptic mange and kills lice. Whatever your dog brings home, it shouldn’t be fleas and ticks. Dogs will be dogs. Whether they get into the garbage can out back or dig up that old shoe in the yard, Seresto® for dogs can help keep them protected from fleas and ticks for 8 continuous months. The innovative Sustained Release Technology of Seresto® provides effective flea and tick protection in an easy-to-apply, non-greasy collar. Truly unique technology for your dog. Seresto® is a unique polymer matrix collar that offers a continuous supply of two active ingredients: imidacloprid and flumethrin for effective 8-month protection against fleas and ticks. That’s one convenient, non-greasy, odorless flea and tick collar instead of 8 monthly treatments. The active ingredients are stored within the collar. They are released in low concentrations and are distributed over your dog’s hair and skin surface for 8 months. As active ingredients wear off over time, Seresto® for dogs continuously replenishes the skin and coat with a new supply of active ingredients. Fleas and ticks are killed through contact with the active ingredients ? no biting required. For 8 months prevention and treatment of ticks, fleas and lice on large dogs and puppies 7 weeks of age and older and up to 18 lbs. (8kg): REPELS AND Kills fleas and ticks. Repels and kills ticks for 8 months, including Deer ticks (vector of Lyme disease and anaplasmosis), American dog ticks (vector of Rocky Mountain spotted fever and ehrlichiosis), Brown dog ticks (vector of ehrlichiosis, anaplasmosis, bartonellosis, canine hemoplasmosis, babesiosis, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever), and Lone Star ticks (vector of ehrlichiosis). Prevents tick infestations within 48 hours after application. Re-infesting ticks are repelled and/or killed as quickly as 6 hours. Treatment with Seresto kills fleas that may vector tapeworm infections (dipylidium caninum), bartonellosis (Bartonella vinsonii, Bartonella spp.), and rickettsiosis (Rickettsia felis), which are types of canine vector borne diseases. Re-infesting fleas are killed within 2 hours with protection against further flea infestation lasting8 months. Kills and repels fleas before they lay eggs. Seresto aids in control of flea larvae in the dog’s surroundings following contact with a Seresto-treated dog. Kills chewing lice. Aids in the treatment and control of Sarcoptic mange on dogs. No need to remove collar when your pet goes swimming or gets bathed. Bayer Polymer Matrix ensures that both active ingredients are continuously released in low concentrations. Make sure to replace the collar after 8 months for year-round tick and flea prevention. Light reflector for added visibility in the evening and at night. *Seresto® is water-resistant and remains effective following a shampoo treatment, swimming or after exposure to rain or sunlight. Under normal conditions, effectiveness lasts for 8 months. In order to maintain an eight-month duration, dogs must not be bathed more than once per month. For dogs that swim once a month or more, the control duration is reduced to 5 months for flea control and reduced to 7 months for tick control

Frontline Flea Spray 

3 Pack Frontline Spray – 750 mL – $78.99

Frontline Spray for Dogs & Cats can be applied directly for both immediate and long-lasting control of fleas and ticks for up to 30 days. This effective spray contains fipronil to kill existing flea and tick infestations. It also kills fleas before they lay eggs, effectively preventing reinfestation. Safe for puppies and kittens 2 days of age or older, Frontline Spray helps reduce flea and tick infestations in multi-pet households, and is great for the initial treatment of flea allergy dermatitis. The spray bottle is easy to use, provides fast and even application and can be reapplied regularly. Fleas Kills Fleas Kills newly emerged adult fleas before they lay eggs Stops existing infestations and prevents establishment of new infestations Kills fleas which may cause flea allergy dermatitis Lice Rapidly eliminates chewing lice infestations Mites Aids in control of sarcaptic mange infestations in dogs Ticks Kills all life stages of ticks (larva, nymph and adult), including brown dog ticks (Rhipicepalus sanguineus), American dog ticks (Dermacentor variabilis), lone star ticks (Amblyomma americanum) and deer ticks (Ixodes scapularis). Kills ticks that may transmit Lyme disease, Rocky montain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, anaplasmosis, haemobartonellosis and other tick-borne diseases Frontline Spray is great for controlling emergency flea infestations as well as for regular use and along with with other monthly flea and tick medications like Frontline Top Spot , Frontline Plus , or Advantage . Frontline Sprays do not contain the potentially toxic insecticides found in most pet store sprays.

What Does it Mean When a Dog Pees Brown?

I had a bit of a scare with Bourbon my mastiff… My mom takes care of Bourbon while i’m at work. When I went pick him up she told me that he had some dark brown urine today… As a pet mom I was worried about him and wanted to know what was causing it. 

Why Is My Dogs Urine Brown?

There are actually a number of different things that can cause your dogs urine to be brown in color. The first is something that happens when their liver creates to much bilirubin. When this happens the body will excrete it through the urine turning it brown in color. So what is bilirubin? Bilirubin is a yellowish pigment found in the bile fluid that the liver creates, an increased red blood cell break down can cause the liver to create this fluid in access. 

Another potential cause of the brownish color in your dogs urine is when there is the presence of a protein called myoglobin. This protein is created and released into the dogs muscles when they are stressed or if they are injured. The coloured urine could also be a sign of kidney stones or an indication of old blood from a trauma or the kidney stones themselves. 

If you notice a pink or red tinge to the urine, that is an indication there may be a current active bleed, and your do is passing new blood. 

Discolouration can also be caused by your dog being dehydrated and not drinking enough water. It is very important that your dog always has a supply of fresh water available to them. If you every have any concern it is always a good idea to check with your vet…

Ideally the color you want your dogs urine to be is light yellow. This is a good indication your dog is getting the fluid it needs to keep hydrated and healthy. Try to keep an eye out for things out of the ordinary, sometime it will be nothing, other time they may be signs of something more serious happening with your dog. 

What Happens At The Vets?

If you make the choice to go to the vet, you may be wondering what they will do… The vet can check for sensitivities indicating possible trauma or internal bleeding, swelling and other physical signs something may be wrong. They will want to know how much water your dog is drinking and if it is available to them all the time. Depending on the concerns they may want to get more information and possibly do some tests, in this case they will ask for a sample of your dogs urine to do a urinalysis.

It can be done a couple ways. There is the non invasive and the invasive way to go about it. The non invasive is the good old ‘pee in a cup’ method, you will need to collect  a fresh sample of urine using a sterile cup or bag, your vet can usually supply you with this, the sample you get will need to be tested within 2 hours if not refrigerated and within 6 hours if it is. Timing is important in order to get the most accurate test results. The invasive way involves your vet putting pressure on the kidney forcing the dog to pee, or using a needle and syringe to extract the urine from the kidney itself. Both of those methods are very painful for your dog and if you can I would avoid them. 

The urine test when it is completed will give the vet any indication of infections or other things that could have caused the discolouration. They will be able to diagnose and give treatment options to you if it is needed. Some vets even recommend doing urine tests yearly to keep on top of your pets health, and prevent infections from growing and spreading if there are any. 

There are a lot of health concern that can be related to discolouration on the urine, if you have concerns always talk to your vet, don’t brush these sign off. Your dogs life could depend on it. 

Thank goodness Bourbon only had the brown urine one time… I couldn’t even imagine the mission that would have been trying to gather a urine sample while he was taking his morning pee. I  don’t know what would have collected more urine, my arms or the container…

Pet health 101 starts with a healthy and balanced diet, exercise and a lots of TLC. 

I have a close eye on Bourbon right now, just to be on the safe side. And of course a check up with the vet. 

Buying a Puppy

Do you know what to look for when buying a new puppy?

When making a decision to bring a new puppy home you may have done a lot of research on breeds and pet care… if not I highly recommend that you do! You are full of knowledge and ready to bring home to new member to your family.

I mentioned research and choosing a breed, I want to touch on that a bit further before I continue. Every breed comes with its own natural traits and animal instincts along with some common health care needs. It’s really important to analyze your home life and know what kind of time and energy you are willing to put into your dog, do you have kids and consider their age. A lot of these things are major parts of your decision making process when considering getting a dog. For example, you won’t want a golden retriever if you are never home to walk him and you are allergic to dog hair. You won’t want a toy breed dog if your very active and want a dog to do hikes with. For some people this may been like common sense, but believe me it isn’t, if it was there wouldn’t be so many pets in shelters in need of a good home.

So after you have done all your research and you have decided on a breed it’s time to get your puppy…

There are many places you can go to get a puppy, let’s take a closer look at them.

Your local shelter: almost every city has a local shelter, or contacts for one close to where you live. The shelter is full of rescues of all sorts of breeds and ages. Most if not all of these dogs will need some very special care and extra love. Some of them have been abused or abandoned, some are new born puppies thrown away or rescued from a puppy mill. There are all sorts of circumstances that take place that resulted in these poor animals ending up in a shelter. Most shelter dogs do require owners with some experience, some of them will have some behavioural issues to work through and others may have some medical issues that will need to be taken care of. I have had many rescues in my home while growing up and have had nothing but great experiences. If you don’t feel confident about raising a rescue that is ok, the animals there have already been through a lot and it’s important that they only go to a forever home. If your a first time pet owner a rescue may not be for you, but it is something your should consider later if you decide to get a second dog as a companion for your first.

Many shelters offer great programs for training and vet checks, your dog will often come to your spayed or neutered and the cost for adopting is to help support the shelter so they can continue to care for other animals that come through their doors. Be prepared to get asked lots and lots of questions. Some shelters have a large questionnaire for you to fill out before adopting. Depending on the answers you give, some shelters won’t adopt to you. This process is built to make sure the homes these animals are going to are well aware of what they are adopting and are prepared for any medical and behavioural issues that can come with them. If you get denied it’s not to say that you won’t be a good pet parent, it just means that these types of pets aren’t suited for you right now. Although don’t just discard any feed back you get from the shelter, they may shed some light on some training practices and lifestyle choices that you didn’t consider when wanting to adopt a dog.

Buying from the internet: there are many many breeders and shelters that use the internet and kijiji for advertising and for reaching people interested in buying or adopting pets. You also need to be aware when searching online for pets. You want to follow up and ask lots of questions to make sure you aren’t getting pets from a puppy mill or a person who just breeds from home for extra cash but doesn’t take care of the animals or doesn’t fallow up with the vet for puppy care before you get your pups. These places also don’t offer any health guarantee incase you’re puppy gets sick and may or may not test their dogs for certain conditions before breeding. All things that are very important when breeding and buying a puppy. I’m not saying all home bread puppies are bad, just make sure you ask extra questions.

Some things to look for when dealing with someone online is to ask if both parents are on scene and if you can meet them. The temperament and health of the parents are a good indication of the health and wellbeing of your new puppy. Doesn’t the person have a care package and vet information for when they got their first and possibly their second set of shots. Is the home clean and the dogs well kept. These are all important indicators when you go to pick up your pup or choose the one you want from the litter.

Buyers be ware! If the owner won’t let you into their home to see the puppies, if the parents of the dogs aren’t on scene, if the residence is unclean and the dogs not groomed, no vet records for the puppies and if the puppies are released before 6-8 weeks old beware! You may be getting a puppy from a puppy mill or an unsafe environment. It is very important consumers use caution and not support improper breeding of dogs.

Breeder: for many people, breeders are a go to when buying a puppy. I have had dogs from breeders and from shelters and with certain breeds I prefer to use a breeder. When I say certain breeds I’m talking about ones with a history of different medical issues like hip and eye problems etc. Breeds like Shepard’s, mastiffs, and retrievers are of those I would personally look for a registered breeder that does extensive testing before they breed and are very careful of the well being and maintenance of their dogs.

Breeders usually offer health guarantees where if any of their puppies have any medical conditions that came from the breeding they will pay for the medical bills or cover the loss of a pup by replacing it. This is absence of security that your pup will be given in good health and was taken care of. Breeders also give a welcome package with vet information like vaccines and when they were done, they are a wealth of knowledge of the breed if you have any questions of concerns and many of them keep active relationships with the families that buy their puppies.

When you choose a breeder there is almost always a higher price tag attached to it, but again, with many breeds you get what you pay for. When I got my mastiff, it was a piece of mind that my dog came from a registered breeder that is held to a certain standard by the Kennel Club, the parents were on scene to meet, the breeder had all the documentation and vet information, and I took home a very happy and healthy puppy.

Bringing a puppy home is a commitment. Do it right, do your research, no what breed best suits yours and your families needs for today and for 10-15 years from now. Make sure you can be a forever home for your dog, they will give you nothing but love if you do.

I love hearing about new puppy stories, if you are looking for a new puppy or have any stories of your experinaces to share please leave a comment below and tell us about it…

 

Training Using a Long Line

When it comes to training your dogs, there are many different methods available out there for you. Some trainers will recommend the use of long lines, and others like to use devises such as e-collars. There are pros and cons to all training methods, you just really need to choose the one that works for you.

I have a 145lb mastiff, he has just gotten into his teenage stage and has started to challenge ever thing he is told. Its normal for this breed and expected. For some people where there dogs get into this stage they find themselves back to the basics with the training. I know I did, and thats ok.

When choosing a type of training tool for your dog, make sure you take their temperament and emotional stability into consideration.

E-collars are a very popular choice with many trainers. The use of them has begun to be a lot more common. Most trainers would not recommend the use of e-collars to uneducated users.

Like all tools it is important to know what you are doing with them and how to leverage it properly to achieve the training results you are desiring.

An e-collar uses different setting that is intended to shock the dog as he is anticipating to do something he isn’t suppose to in order to create a negative association with behaviours you don’t want.

Seems pretty simple, and the idea is that it is suppose to be. However the shock needs to be delivered at the right time and your dog needs to be emotionally stable enough to handle this type of training.

Bourbon my mastiff, although a big big dog wouldn’t be able to handle an e-collar, in fact the use of an e-collar would frighten him and would potentially cause him to loose trust in me. Something I definitely wouldn’t want to happen. Because of this I sourced out other tools I can use to work through training sessions that will allow me to get the results I want but also reinforce the relationship between me and Bourbon.

The option I choose to work through the training with is the use of something called a long line. Its literally a really really long leash. I have a 25ft lead for my training, but there are different lengths available out there. Choose what works for you.

The use of a long line allows you to train using leash pressure and it also gives your dig the opportunity to make the write or wrong decisions while training.

You may be wondering why you would want your dog to make a wrong decision. The use of the long line allows the dog to make a choice, if they make the wrong one you make a correction using leash pressure and a strict ‘no’.

By doing this your dog is still learning that when they decode to listen to you there is a positive response, and when the decide not to there is a negative one. With Bourbon he just like to challenge me right now for who’s the boss. When I use leash pressure to restrict his movements and to correct bad decisions he is starting to learn very quickly that I am the boss and he does need to follow my direction.

When you are starting to use a long line you want to just give the dog a little bit of slack to walk at a heel and to execute your come and heel commands. As you start to build the foundation you want to give the dog more and more slack, more opportunities to make decisions. As you create consistent positive results in your training, you will see that there will be less of a need for corrections and your dogs responses will be faster and more accurate.

At that point you can start to introduce some distractions, like another dogs or someone playing in the background. Your dogs attention will naturally be drawn to the distractions, at this point you are working with his responses to the distractions and making sure that regardless of other things going on around them, they are still choosing to put your commands first and responding to what you are asking.

The long line is the safety blanket, if your dog starts to deviate or go towards the distraction, you are able to stop him with the lead before he gets to far.

Now take that same scenario with my dog Bourbon with an e-collar. At the moment he decided the distraction was more important then listening to me, he already knows through our training that there is a correction for not following my commands, the shock form the e-collar may scare him causing him to bolt. Lose lose in results. He may or may not return because I have frightened him rather then inserting my control over his behaviours.

Im not saying e- collars dot work for many dogs, they do, they just don’t work for all dogs. Please make sure you really consider your dogs behaviours and emotional needs before deciding what training toll to use. The long line has been a great tool at home..

I use it in the home and out of the home. In the home I use the long line to train Bourbon  distance, by restricting how far away he is able to go from me he starts to learn that he is only able to have a certain distance between him and me. I had to start this training because Bourbon like to bolt out the front door every time it opened. That is dangerous for him and for people walking by. So I introduced the long line training in the home. The other benefit to the use of leash pressure is that he got a correction every time he headed for the open door. Now when the door opens, he looks at it, but doesn’t react to it.

Training results don’t happen over night and do require a lot of patience and time. Stay consistent with your methods, if you don’t get the results you want right away give it some time to see if you start to see some change. I recommend this because dogs react positively to routine, if you are constantly changing your training methods you may never see the results you want.

One step at a time… If you are using a long line for your training I would like to hear how it is coming along for you and your dog, please leave a comment below.

Happy training!!

 

Grooming Basics For Your Dog

Just as we need to bath and keep clean, our furry friends need the same thing. They don’t need showers daily by any means but they do need a regular grooming schedule to help keep them healthy. Unfortunately there is no magic grooming schedule that works for all dogs. Every breed is different, and all of them have different grooming needs.

To try and keep it simple, Im going to break down some of the basics of dog grooming to get you started. Any specific concerns you may have with your breed you can leave a comment below and ill get back to you, or you can always touch base with your breeder or vet.

Nails – cutting your dogs nails is a task, some dogs will let you do it and others wont. It is so important like most grooming things that you get your pup used to it at a younger age and have it part of their routine so that they get used to it and don’t fight you on it. Some dogs have black nails and other have white. In the white or light coloured nails it is easy to see the nerve in the nail. You don’t want to cut to short and nick the nerve as it will cause the nail to bleed, and depending on the dog it may make them afraid of getting their nails cut. For dogs with black nails you wont be able to see the nerve at all, this is where regular trimming comes into particular importance because when you don’t cut your dogs nails regularly the nerve will extend closer to the tip of the nail making it harder to trim, and of course with the dogs with black nails you wont be able to see it.

If you are nervous about trimming your pups nails your vet can walk you through it, or they can also do it for you if you prefer that. There are also many grooming shops that will do nails as part of a grooming package.

Trimming the paw hair – not all dogs have an issue with this, this is mainly for dogs that have longer hair. Breeds like Golden Retrievers and Poodles that grow longer hair need this done. The reason for this is because the hair as it grows longer can get knotted and that can become very uncomfortable in between the pads of their feet. In the winter this hair will also collect tons of snow and it can create balls of ice that can cause a lot of pain to them as they walk. Just like trimming their nails, having your pup used to you handling their feet is key to a pleasant experience grooming them. And with the use of scissors it will be safer for you and them as well.

Shaving and hair trims – This is also a breed specific thing. For example Poodles need their faces shaves to keep long hairs form getting into their eyes and causing weeping. And it is also part of the poodle look. Shaving the face is something that is usually done every 4 to 6 weeks depending on how long you are willing to let the hair grow between trims.

Some breeds like Golden Retrievers will get feathered hair growth around the feet and along the legs and belly, some of this trimming is more cosmetic then a necessity. The trimming around the feet is important, trimming back the feathered hairs up the legs and across the belly isn’t. Although when its done they do look very pretty, or handsome 🙂

One more thing to consider, and keep in mind, if you have a dog with long hair, you may also want to keep an eye on the hair in their ears, it can also get knotted and cause ear infections, you should talk to your vet or your breeder about best practices to take care of that hair.

Ear cleaning – as mentioned earlier, ear cleaning for dogs with longer hair does have more involved. For dogs with shorter hair, just keep an eye on the ears when bathing and if they spend some time in water outside of the home, trapped water in the ears can cause some nasty infections.

Bathing – Bathing can ce a real project, some pups don’t mind at all and others hate it. I made sure to make bathing a very fun and positive experience when was little so now that he’s 145lbs when its bath time he is more then happy to jump into the tub and let me wash him. I like to use an all natural puppy shampoo for my dogs, it is easier on them if you have to bath them a bit more often if your dog is anything like mine and always gets into something dirty…

For a regular routine, every few months is usually good for most breeds, for breeds with longer hair a good brush before and after is a best practice to get rid of any extra hair, and to cut down on matts.

 

Brushing – You can brush dogs with shorter hair, however it isn’t really a necessity like dogs with longer hair. Seasonal grooming is a lot of work, so during the shedding seasons if you are taking a few min each day to groom it will make a major difference in the home. Grooming your pup can also be a bonding time for you and them, so try not to look at it so much as a choir.

For dogs with shorter hair you will want to have a brush with a softer bristle, and then you will want to have a stronger one for dogs with longer thicker hair.

If grooming is something that you have no interest in doing, there are some great packages available out there for you in the market place. Do some research and check out the facility before you leave your pup there, you want to be sure that grooming is a positive experience for them, especially when they will be left with strangers.

Teeth cleaning – now to some this may seem strange but brushing your dogs teeth can go a long way. Smaller breeds usually have more issues with their teeth then larger breeds, but brushing their teeth either way is a good step to ensuring their health. With small breeds decay and build up on their teeth can lead to major health issues like heart disease. If the build up is left to long, regular brushing wont correct the issues, you will have to have the vet put them under and surgically clean the teeth.

Pets store have a variety of products you can use to help with dental health. You can buy a tooth brush and tooth paste for weekly brushing, and if you would like you can also give them different chews that will help with keeping their teeth clean.

Keeping your dog groomed can be a problem, and Cherrybrook has the solution. Cherrybrook.com offers Cherrybrook Dog Grooming Solution products, including professional-grade shears, shampoo and more, for both professionals and pet owners alike. Shop now!

The process of grooming your pup is a big part of their overall health and well being, it is important for all pet parents to insure they can keep their pup groomed, healthy and happy. I hope I was able to help answer any questions you may have had about grooming but if you do need any further help, or have any questions leave me a comment below…

Happy grooming 🙂

 

Vaccinations For Your Puppy

There is a lot more to taking care of your puppy then just buying them toys and treats, and giving them lots of cuddles. I’m sure you already knew that…

Another big part to make sure your puppy lives a longer and happier life is to make sure that they get all their vaccinations as well. When you adopt your pup or bring them home from a breeder it is important to find out what shots they have had and when they have had them so that you can continue the vaccination schedule when you get your puppy home.

The first set of shots usually happen between 6-8 weeks old, then you will have some at 9-11 weeks, 12-14 weeks, 16-17 weeks, and then 12months old, so really it is approximately every 2-4 weeks until they are about 17 weeks old. This may seem like a lot, and very inconvenient.. And yes I agree with you it is a lot ot keep track of, but honestly it is so important to make sure you protect your dog from many of the viruses these vaccines protect them from. Some of the viruses are deadly and others can make your pup very ill. Getting them vaccinated is the first line of defense as they grow up into an active member in your family.

If you have a puppy that was adopted and has no vaccination records your vet may suggest to start the process from scratch to be sure they have everything they need to protect themselves. If you have any further concerns your vet is the best source for treatments and action plans.

The best decisions are educated ones, let’s look at some of the viruses and illnesses you are protecting your puppy against when you get them vaccinated. I will list them alphabetically so it is easier to follow along with;

Bordetella – This bacteria is the basic cause of kennel cough. It causes severe fits of coughing, vomiting, whooping, and in some cases seizures and death. This bacterium is highly communicable. For this vaccine you have the choice between an injectable or spray version.

Canine Distemper – This is a serious and dangerous disease that spreads from animal to animal through airborne exposure. It affects many animals other than dogs. This very contagious disease is caused by a virus that attacks the respiratory, GI and nervous system of the animal. Along with the spread by airborne, it can also be contracted from food and water dishes that the infected animal was in contact with. Distemper has a nasty set of symptoms, it causes vomiting, diarrhea, discharge from the eyes and nose, fever, coughing, twitching, seizures, paralysis and often death.

Unfortunately there is no cure for distemper. The infected animal can can shed the virus for months. The treatment of this disease is supportive care to try and support the immune system to fight off a secondary disease and many of the symptoms of distemper. The hope of these treatments if the dog survives the illness is also to boost the immune system enough that the dog may able to fight it off.

Canine Hepatitis – another viral and highly contagious disease, this one affects the liver, kidneys, spleen lungs and the eyes. This is another disease with no cure, however doctors can treat the symptoms. It is not the same as hepatitis that humans get. Dogs can overcome the more mild version of the virus, but the more severe one can kill them.

symptoms include slight fever, congestion and vomiting, jaundice, stomach enlargement and pain around the liver. As mentioned, there is not cure for the disease, but if your dog does get this disease there are treatments for the systems.

Canine Parainfluenza – this is another virus that contribute to kennel cough

Heartworm – heartworm prevention is something all pet parents hear abut from there vet all the time. It is one of those things that many dog owners forget to follow upon or stay consistent with. It is important to know there is no vaccine for this infection however there is prevention from regular medicine.

Just as the name is descriptive, these worms grow in the right side of the heart and travel through the arteries sometimes even effecting the liver and kidneys. These worms can grow up to 14″long and id they grow in clumps can block or damage the organs.

This disease is transmitted by mosquitos, in the early stages symptoms start mild, your dog may seem lethargic, have a lower appetite, may have a cough, and tires more easily after minimal exercise. If you are concerned about your dog having heart worm, you can have your vet conduct a blood test to see if it is in fact infected.

Kennel Cough – this disease is a result of inflammation in the upper airways. It can be caused by a number of different bacterial and viral infections. Usually the disease is mild and cause spouts of harsh and dry coughing. A more sever for can cause vomiting gagging and loss of appetite. In rare cases it can be deadly. Kennel cough spreads easily between dogs in close quarters which is why is can pass very quickly through a kennel. You can talk to your vet about different forms of treatment for this.

Leptospirosis – This is a disease caused by bacteria, and unlike most others, some dogs can go without showing any symptoms. It is found in soils and water, and it is one of those diseases that can be spread from animals to humans. Antibiotics are found effective for this and the sooner they are given the better. When and if symptoms of this disease do appear it can cause fever, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, sever lethargy, weakness, loss of appetite, stiffness, muscle pain, infertility, and kidney failure.

Lyme Disease – This is an infection cause by a tick, and is transmitted by a tick. It does not have the symptoms of a human that may be suffering from the disease. An infected dog will often start to limp, their temperature will rise and they will loose their appetite. The disease among other things can affect his heart, kidney and joints, and if left untreated can lead to neurological disorders. antibiotics has shown to be very succceful however relapses months and even years later can occur.

Parvovirus – also known as Parvo is a disease that affects all dogs, and puppies that are un-vaccinated and under four months are at the highest risk for contracting this virus. It is a very contagious virus that attacks the GI system and creates symptoms such as vomiting, loss of appetite, fever and sometimes sevier bloody diarrhea. Sevier dehydration can come on quickly and can kill the dog within 48-72 hours, swift treatment from your vet will be needed and is crucial to their survival. There is no cure, but there is treatment for the symptoms that will also support the immune system helping the dog beat the virus.

Rabies – this is one of those diseases we usually hear about in wild animals, however it can affect your dig if it is bitten by an animal that is infected by rabies. An animal that is infected with have the symptoms of headaches, anxiety, hallucinations, excessive drooling, fear of water, paralysis and death. It is important that you seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible as time for the spread of the virus is crucial in the survival of your dog, if your not able to get your dog to a vet within the first few hours of it being bitten death is highly likely.

It is important to always consult with your vet about your vaccination options and make a plan that works for you. An educated pet parent makes for a happier and healthier puppy. Remember there is no cut and dry vaccination schedule, different dogs living in different areas will need different things, the guide we will be looking is merely a suggestion to get your thinking about what you may need for your puppy.

Lets look at the vaccination schedule you should consider….

Important to know, there are some vaccines that are given as a combo shot, like the DHLPPC or DHPP, which is to help protect your puppy against Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, Parvo, and Corona.

The schedule below is from the AKC website for your reference..

The first year is the most expensive when it comes to vaccinating. After that you will have to do the yearly rabies shots and if you want there are yearly vaccines you can do as well. Some verts agree with doing them and other do not. This is another thing you can discuss with your vet and decide is vaccinating every year is something you want to do… But remember, the rabies is mandated by law and you have to get your dog vaccinated every year.

If you wonder about the exact cost I do find it really varies from vet to vet, If you are concerned before you bring a puppy home you can always reach out to your vet ahead of time and they can prepare you for the cost for the first years a vaccine.

I hope I was able to help you with your vaccine questions, if you have any more, just drop a comment below…

 

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Supporting Your Local SPCA

Every day there are dogs that are mistreated and rescued by the SPCA. These dogs need help from the public in order to get the second chance at the better life they deserve. Supporting a local SPCA is one of those things that more pet owners and non pet owners should be doing.

When you are thinking of adding a new member to your family I really encourage you to check your local SPCA. One of my very first dogs as a child was from the SPCA and still today we talk about her and smile, she was one of the best dogs we ever had.

Growing up my mom took part in a partnership program with the SPCA where we would bring rescues home and help rehabilitate them so they could be re-homed into their forever home. I remember times when we had 6 dogs running around. As a kid I though I had the best mom ever, bringing home all sorts of dogs all the time. I never knew what they went through before we got them, but I was happy we got to bring them all home. As we got older my mom told my sister and I a little bit more about why she would bring dogs home for a few weeks and then they would go away. Now as an adult I am so happy we got to be apart of that process.

I am not suggesting you go that far. It is not an easy thing to do, it can be very expensive, not to mention it is a lot! of work!… But I would like you to think about donating some food every once in a while, maybe volunteer to take dogs for walks. Go to the SPCA and ask them what kind of support programs they have and try to take part.

I have shared some stories about some rescues on the about me page. I would also love to hear any stories you might have about a rescue or an adoption you were apart of…

 

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Caution With Rope Toys

Almost all pet parents including myself have bought their pups a rope toy or two… Most dogs love them, I know mine do. They throw them around, they play tug-a-war, or they just sit there and teeth on them for a while.

The caution I wanted to share is what happens when they break through the knot and the strings become loose… Some dogs get really excited as they start to chew into things, they get this motivation to keep going until they destroy it. As a pet parent with two very big busy mastiff’s, having their minds occupied for a couple hours chewing on their toys is a wonderful break. It is really important though to still keep an eye on them.

I experienced a potential close call a few times with my puppy mastiff. Bourbon is a serious chewer, sometimes I think he should work for a dog toy company as a tester to see if their toys are really chew resistant lol… I’m serious, almost every toy that a pet store has said is made for major chewers, usually lasts a day or two, sometimes less…

His first big knot rope toy was like christmas day for him. He was throwing it up in the air, he was rolling on it, and finally he found a spot on the couch and just went to town chewing on it. This was a routine for him for a few days, after play time he would get the rope toy and spend some time on the couch trying to rip through it. this routine worked well until one day I noticed he had pulled some long strands off and then he ingested them. I tried not to get to worried, I called my vet and he told me to keep an eye on him. The next day while he was going to the bathroom he was having a hard time pooping, he started freaking out… Turns out the string was stuck causing problems for him, and he didn’t k now what to do. I had to help him and pull it out, he laid on the floor for a bit after and didn’t want to move, I through out the rope toy. I spoke to the vet and he told me a was lucky, that a long enough strand could get trapped in his body as he passes it through… I was pretty shocked when he told me this. Bourbon is okay, he was back to normal after about 10-15min and I haven’t had any issues since. The vet also did tell me that although it is a caution, it’s not something that happens often, I just need to keep an eye on him when he plays.

That was not his last rope toy, he has had a few more since then, I just make sure I take them away from him before he can ripe off long strands of rope.

Rope toys come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. I strongly caution you to get the right size for you pup. I only get the biggest toughest ones I can find, this way they will last a bit longer and the risk is reduced. For a medium breed I would look for one that is better suited for a larger breed, and for a small breed use the size that is best suited for a medium. That or only use these toys on supervised play time.

       

 

I pulled a few examples of the variety you can get rope toys in now. Just click on any of the images and it will take you to the full page with details and pricing for each. The great thing is, you can get these toys almost anywhere that sells pet supplies.

I really hope I was able to illustrate some caution that should be taken when we give our pups new toys. It’s great to give them things to stimulate their minds and to keep them busy… Stops them from looking for your shoes or socks to chew on. Just keep an eye on them, and it they were to ingest something they aren’t suppose to at least then you will know and will be able to act accordingly.

 

Bonding With Play Time

Dogs bond with their litter mates and other dogs through play, it is no different with their human. Never underestimate the power of play with your pup….

Playing with your pup can do a number of things;

  • Give them much needed exercise,
  • It keeps them busy,
  • Theirs bonding time,
  • You help them learn manners and boundaries,
  • It can help to prep them for training time,
  • And of course just generally make them happy.

Much needed exercise – exercise is so so important for your dogs well being. We usually leave our dogs at home all day while we are at work. A lot of us don’t realize how stressful that can be for them, and how bored then can get. Taking them for a walk or spending some time playing in the backyard in the morning as part of their routine will not only help them relax while you are gone but will also help with how hyper they are when you get home. Not to mention the added bonus of keeping them healthy through a regular exercise routine.

Keep them busy – when your pup has their fill of exercise and engagement through activity, they are less likely to look for things to get into. For example when your pup has their own toys and they are rewarded regularly by you playing with them together, they are more likely to continue to do so on their own time rather then look for things to chew on like your shoes or a couch…

Bonding time – building a relationship with your pet is something we all want, that is why we got the pup in the first place isn’t it? playful interaction is one of the best ways to build that bond.

Learn manners and boundaries – when your pup is with their litter mates their brothers and sister teach them how to interact and play. They learn when they are being to rough, or when they are hurting their siblings. They do this through playing with each other. You are usually bringing your puppy home between 8-10 weeks old, at this age there is still plenty to learn. You can continue this teaching when you bring your pup home, it will help with training and your pup will grow to respect you as well.

Prep them for training time – attempting to train and teach your pup new tricks when they are full of energy will end with you being frustrated. They will spend more time doing everything you don’t want them to do rather then learning. Next time you want to do some training, take your pup for a walk or play a bit first to help reduce some of that excess energy. Then when you go to do some training you will get a much better response, you can also reward the training session with some more play after. Your pup will really feel like they did something right and will be much more interested in doing this process again the next time. The key is consistency.

Happy puppy happy life – this really speaks for itself. Anyone who comes from a pet family has experience those trouble makes that get into things, chew on everything they are not suppose too and generally cause havoc in the house. Most of the time this is a result of a bored dog. Fixing the habits once they have been created is harder, so start with a healthy exercise and interactive routine early and the chances of this behavior developing is way less likely.

The best toys to use for this interaction are ones that involve both you and your pet. A good tennis ball, a Kong, a rope toy, are just a few of the toys you can use to play. The friendship that will evolve from this time you are spending will be really rewarding, your dog will build a bond with you that will help in many ways… I really encourage all pet parents to take the time

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Welcome to a World of Furry Friends

Our pets play a big roll in our lives. They become part of the family, they make you laugh, they are there for you when you need a friend, sometimes they make you cry. They impact us in such a big way.

Im a proud owner of a Cane Corso named Bourbon and a Toy Poodle named Sophie, you will see a lot of them on the site. I also have another Mastiff named Couture, for big dogs they are the biggest babies.

Most of us have a little buddy waiting at home for us…

On this site I will do my best to offer a variety of animal stories, some training tips, some great products for your pets… All kinds of fun stuff.

My goal for this site is to give you everything you will need to be great pet parents and give an amazing forever home for your furry friends. 

Whats Your Favourite Breed?

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Recent Posts

  • Cropping Your Dogs Ears
  • Bringing A Dog over the Border
  • BH Trials
  • Dog training in your home
  • Separation Anxiety

Recent Comments

  • Stephania on Separation Anxiety
  • Nathan on Separation Anxiety
  • admin on Buying a Puppy
  • Sylvie on Buying a Puppy
  • Stephania on Flea and Tick Season

Dog Dogs and More Dogs

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Products

  • DIY Large Dog Bed $0.99
  • DIY Med Dog Bed 32"w x 22"d $0.99
  • DIY Small Dog Bed 24"w x 17"d $0.99

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Categories

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