Training your dog should start from the moment you get your puppy home. Now I’m not talking about a boot camp, but I am talking about building structure and consistency as soon as possible. 

All breeds of dogs have different needs. Some breeds need stricter rules and boundaries then others. But there isn’t a single dog out there that wouldn’t benifit form obedience and training at home.

There seems to be this thought that your toy breeds don’t need training, it’s excusable when they bark and act irratically,  cute when they growl or act possessive, and part of the day to day routine for them to be the boss of the household. It’s this mentality that is the result of more reported attacks by toy breeds then there is by the guardian breeds like mastiffs and pit bulls. 

Reports like this shouldn’t happen. As a dog owner you should be taking responsibility to train and raise a well mannered and obedient dog, no matter what the breed. 

From experinace working with the SPCA as a partnership home, it make a world of difference in the home when you have instilled a routine and obedience in your dogs. When we originally got the dogs they typically were problem pets, pets people didn’t take the time to train and as a result developed behavioural issues that made them impossible to live with. At this time their owners forfitted them to the SPCA to be rehomed. This is sad, so much of this issue could have been avoided by training from day one. 

What are the basics that will make a difference? 

• Sit
• Heel
• Stay
• Come 
• Bed 
• Yes and no
• Ok – as a release command 

These are the most basic of the commands that will  help you create a balanced and happy home for you and your dog. Dogs like obedience, it is not mean to put your dog in a down stay while you are having dinner and then releasing them with the command ‘ok’ when your done. In fact your dog is super excited that you gave them a job to do, and even happier to come to your for praise for a job well done when you have released them from their duties. 

Before I get into some tips to help you introduce these training commands to your dog I want to bring up an important issue. Know your breed! All breeds have different needs and concerns.  For example, my 5lb toy poodle is well versed in the commands I have listed above and that’s as far as the training has gone. For a toy poodle, that’s all she needs and all I need to have balance with her. On the other hand my 140lbs Cane Corso is trained in protection sports and has a very strict routine to keep him in check for him to understand I’m Alfa and he’s not.  Its a lot of work, and it’s a daily job, but very necessary. The ulternitive if I chose not to put that level of obedience on him could be dangerous. 

Tools you will need;

• Leash
• Collar for tension ( prongs are not necessary ) 
• Patience 
• Time
• Treats for food rewards 

Sit 

Your training language should be simple and consistent. By doing this you will make your training routine simple for you and your puppy. Sit is one of the foundation commands, typically you want your dog to sit and stay while you prepare their means and then tell them ‘ok’ when they can go eat. While on your walks you want them to sit at a heel everytime you stop. And another great time to ask them to sit is before they are receiving toys, chews, rewards, anything they are to wait for. Nothing is free for your dog, if they want anything from you they have to work for it.

To initiate the sit you will want to start with a callar that can be used to create tension, similar pull like a chain choker, but I use a nylon version. The collar should fit so that it is up at the base of the head, keep in mind a developing puppy will change sizes a few times before they are fully matured. Once the collar is in place put on the leash. Oh and make sure you have treats on hand, food reward along with positive reinforcement is the best remedy for a good training session. 

Next, training sessions with a puppy shouldn’t be more the 15-20 min at a time when your first starting, reason being, the puppy will have limited attention span for training. You also want training to be fun and exciting at first. This will create the foundation for soild positive reinforcement training. 

All dogs need to get used to their handlers handleing them. When teaching position based commands you will have to use your hands with leash pressure to guide them to the position you want them to be in. Once compete, mark it with a ‘yes’ and either food or praise reward. 

For a sit you will want the dog at the heel position. Typically that is to the left side of you. With leash in the right hand you will want to put slight leash pressure in a upward motion while using your left hand, sliding it gently down their back pushing their bottom down the the ground. Very important, you don’t want to choke the dog so don’t pull on the leash so tight as to do that, you also don’t want to force the dogs bum down to the ground and damage bones or hips. 

While you are doing the motions of the sit, tell your pup ‘sit’. As soon as your dog completes the task say ‘yes’ to mark the command complete and then reward. 

Repeat this a few times with your dog, and then release them from the training position with the word ‘ok’ to go and play and or give them lots of love for the training session. 

The first few times you may not get your pup to sit perfect everytime, that’s why I mentioned patience. Stay consistent and it will come. Once your dogs starts to learn sit, then you will be able to use the corrective word ‘no’ before you make it happen with leash pressure and your hand placement when they choose not to listen to you. Trust me, that will happen more then once. 

The repeat of command, ‘yes’ and ‘ok’ before reward will start to condition your dog to very specific responses. The words yes, no, and ok will be used for every training command you give. 

Heel 

Heel is one of those commands that will make walking your dog way more enjoyable. There is nothing worse then walking a dog that is pulling you all over the place. On your walks you want your dog at your side, only leaving it when you get them to the spot where you want them to ‘get busy’ as I call it, otherwise knows as going to the bathroom. 

The process for training this command is very similar to the sit. You will need their leash and collar and some treats for rewards. When ready to give the heel command you will want your leash in you right hand and with your left hand guide the puppies bum toward your left leg putting them in the desired position. Once complete mark it with a ‘yes’ and the give food reward ‘ok’. 

Little trick, you want eye contact when training, it creates focus between dog and handler. To train this, everytime you give a command and mark it with a yes, before you give food, bring the treat to your mouth and then say ‘ok’ as you bring the reward down to the dog and give it to them. This will also create a conditioned response for the dog to look up at you for your next command anticipating the ok and the food reward. Focus focus focus…

The beginning stages of the heel command is just to teach your dog that heel means to be at your side, and when your stoped they are to sit. So the next stage of the heel is to tell your dog to sit after they are in the position of the heel. Eventually through repetition when you are at a stand still and you say ‘heel’ your dog will know to come to your left side and sit. Repeat the heel at your side and sit command until you feel your dog is really grasping the concept before you add motion to it.

Adding motion to your heel. Motion is harder to control then a sit or a down stay. So training the heel while walking can be challenging, distractions such as other dogs and noises can easily pull your dogs attention away from you and into a curios pull or excited behaviour. This can also be call drive. Drive is good, drive is useful when training, but you want the drive to be focused to you. 

While training the heel in motion I like to use treats held with my right hand in the spot I want my dog to be looking at encouraging the pup to be at my side looking up at me. When I get good focus they get the treat. When I don’t I correct with ‘no’ and then regive  the command of ‘heel’ as soon as the dog is back in focus and at a heel I mark with a yes and food reward. 

I like to build drive while training. So after a few seconds of a really focused heel I will give the ‘ok’ command letting the dog know it’s released from the command and then get excited with the pup and do a bit of play. 

Down

Down is another great foundation command to teach your pup. A down stay in their ped while you have company over or are eating dinner can make a big difference in some of the chaos that can happen in the home. For my Corso, if I’m eating super he’s at a down stay on his bed till we are cleaning up, if people are over and I don’t want him stressing out traveling from person to person trying to figure things out I send him to his bed and put him in a down stay. He is more then happy to stay there as long as I tell him to be because he knows at the end he will get treats and cuddles for being a good boy. Down stay is his bed is also great when your having family watching a movie on the couch. Nothing worse then trying to fit a few people and 140lb dog on one couch. Now he is on the couch with me sometimes, not to say he is always sent away, but everything is on my terms and not his. This is one of those know your breeds situations, a golden retriever won’t challenge you for Alfa in the home because you let him up on the couch or sleep on the bed, most guardian breeds like a mastiff are very strong minded and need a strong leader, if you don’t take control, they most certainly will. 

Down is a command that is usually pretty simple to teach as you can use treats or food as liuer to the ground. Again to start this command I would get my pup into a heel, get them into a sit and praise focus, then I would give the command of ‘down’ then take the treat and liuer the puppy the the ground, only when the pup has his bottom completely down do you give the treat. Don’t offer it if he has his front down but his butt up in the air, they like to do that at first. If your pup doesn’t go down, slide the treat across the ground a bit forcing the dog to crawl forward a bit, therefore tricking them into a down, as soon as they are down mark it with ‘yes’ then ‘ok’, gove the food reward.   

After a few times of using the liuer technique try giving the command of ‘down’ from a standing position with your pup at a heel. If they don’t follow through with the command, follow up with a ‘no’ and then regive you’re command of ‘down’.if you’re dog doesn’t respond at that point use leash tension to put them in a down. Stand back up and as long as your dog stays on a down you can offer the food reward. If they continue to get up everytime you get up, then using your foot, put the leash under it, guide the dog into a down and hen out the leash tight underbelly your foot. If the dog tries to get up, he will end up correcting himself with the leash tension forcing him back into a down. When the dog stays at the down and gives your focus then mark it ‘yes’ and give food reward ‘ok’. 

Stay 

This command is best taught after you have started to get some headway on the training. Stay is a command that can take a bit of time for them to catch on too especially since your pup just wants to follow you around everywhere. 

When starting to train stay keep your dog within leash length. You don’t want to be walking away from your dog off leash and then they decide to take off somewhere. At this time your dog may or may not know the command come, and is certainly too curious about the world to care that your calling him. 

To start the command get your pup at a heel and then make sure they are at a sit. Mark it with ‘yes’ and then say ‘stay’. Take a step forward and stand in front of your pup, still holding the leash, Tell them they are a good boy or girl, then return to your dog. Once again at a heal mark it with ‘yes’ and then food reward. You will then repeat the process. That’s a perfect world that it will work like that right away. If your dog gets up during anytime in the process you will mark that with ‘no’ pit your dog back in position and start again. Never finish a training session without finishing a command. If you are working on stay, don’t just stop because the pup doesn’t get it, you will set yourself back. Complete the heel and sit, even if you give the stay command and just take two steps in any direction away from the pup and they don’t move, that can be considered success. 

As you work with your pup you will increase the distance and the length of time they are at a stay, you may also introduce distractions with other dogs and noises. Adding more challenge can be fun for you and your dog… and remember all training is an amazing bonding experiance for you and your dog. 

Come

You have been working on the sit, your dog is getting better with a heel, and his stay for the most part is consistent… we can start the ‘come’ command. Again until you are more confident with your dogs level of obedience you will want to keep your dog on a leash for this training. A great tool that I have used is a long lone for outdoor training. Just keep in mind, if you have a larger more powerful dog, if your far enough away and they decide to bolt, they may be able to take you off your feet with the momentum they can get from a longer leed. It’s a true story, I know from experiance…

To start this command get your pup is a proper heel, at your side in a sit. You can do a come from a down stay or from a sit.    Once your dog is in the position you want them to be, give them the command ‘stay’, then holding the leash walk the leash length away, and face your dog, leave the dog at the stay for a moment, when you have focus give the command ‘come’. I usually use the dogs name first before the command, it’s a good habit to get into especially with the come command, just incase your in a situation where there are multiple dogs and somone yells come to their dog, you don’t want yours running off. You may have to entice the pup by showing him the treats you will give him when he comes, and as he comes to you encourage it positively by saying things like good boy, good boy. As soon as the dog is in front of you mark it with ‘yes’, ‘ok’ and then food reward. 

You want your dog straight in front of you when you are calling them to a come, when the come is complete you will also want them to sit in front of you with focus. 

Bed 

Sending your dog to bed is such an amazing thing. It’s my favourite command at home. I have mentioned a few reason already why and how I use the command. 

For the bed command, you will take the dog to the bed, once on the bed give the command ‘bed’ and take a step back, mark it with ‘yes’ and then praise them when they stay on the bed. Do this a few times so that your pup starts to acociate the action with the command. After this you can try the command with the dog at a heel and sending them to the bed, marking it with ‘yes’ when they do it and ‘ok’ before they can leave the bed and they get praised and given treats. 

At this point you have put alot of time and energy into training, you will start to notice your dog will catch onto things quicker and they will get more eager to learn and work for you. You may also notice your dogs behaviour is more level and that you have less issues at home. A dog with a job is a happy dog, a happy dog at home can make life a lot easier. 

The basic commands are part of your responsibility as a dog parent. Now there are exceptions to every circumstance, just as people have different personalities, so do dogs. You could have one dog that was super easy to train and a great companion, and then the next dog you get gives you a run for your money. If you are struggling with any training or behaviour issues don’t leave it, don’t convince yourself it’s just a puppy thing and they will grow out of it. Some things they will yes, but a bad behaviour not corrected is like telling the dog that behaviour is ok… 

if you find yourself having issues or a lot more questions as you start your training you can always leave me a comment I’m more then happy to offer any assistance I can. There are some things that will require extra assistance, and for those things I am a big supporter of taking your dog to a training camp. 

When choosing a training camp make sure you are sourcing out one that understand the needs of dog you have. For example, my Cane Corso trains for his competitions at a facility that trains police dogs. The trainers there have tons of experiance with guardian and working breeds and understand the level of obedience I need for bourbon to have him ready to compete. 

A toy breed or a dog with less training obstacles could gi to a more basic training camp like something you find at pets mart, your accomplishments there are simply to socialize and get to the basics. 

There is nothing wrong with finding yourself in a spot with training and your willing to reach out to someone for help if things aren’t going the way as planned. Your vet can be another great resource for information, they can usually suggest good places that they have gotten feedback about from other dog owners who have needed help. You can also talk to your breeder, many breeders show their dogs and have them in competitions to elevate their breeding lines. They should have some great tips for you and have some contact info of some training facilities that you can reach out too as well.

Good luck with all your training. I really hope you are able to enjoy the process. It really strengthens the bond between you and your dog. 

Sty’s on your dog are a thing. They can happen when there is some sort of infection in the eyelid glands. A red bump will develop on the eyelids or brow. Depending on the infection, one or more of these red bumps can develop. They can get pretty big too, Bourbon got one and within a couple days it tripped in size. Mind you he keeps rubbing his eye on everything he can, obviously that isn’t helping.

What can you do about the sty?

There are a few different things you can Do to take care of the sty;

• Sty’s can pop on thier own
• Treatment options
• Essential oils can help

Sty’s healing on their own.

The sty really is an abscess to put it plainly. So, sometimes as it forms there will be a head on it, and other times it will self absorb as the source of the infection heals. If you see a head on the sty it is not suggested that you try and pop it yourself, or even pop it at all. If there is a head it can and will pop all on its own. As usual with most health concern with your dog it is best to consult your vet. They can assist you with treating the infection so that the sty can self absorb, or give you other options to take care of the sty.

There are a couple treatment options.

When you take your dog to the vet, they may want to do a culture swap to identify what bacterial infection your dogs eye. They then may suggest some things like a warm compress that your would apply to the eye daily for a lengthy of time of approx 15min.

Keep in mind with all treatment options that they sty can be very painful to your pet, and depending on the size and the infection your pup may react with a nip when you’re trying to touch it and examine it. Don’t be upset at them, they are just in pain.

Your vet may also prescribe an antibiotic eye drop to help with the infection and prompt the dissolve or busting of the sty. When you notice the sty starting to weep, try to keep on top of it and wipe away the goop coming out. If you notice that the drops aren’t helping after a couple days or that the infection sees to increase, your treatment plan may not be working and your should follow up with the vet.

Natural healing with essential oils.

Essential oils have taking the healing industry by storm over the last few years. Beware when using essential oils, not all oils are safe for your pet, some oils such as tea tree can be dangerous to their health. If you decide to use essential oils with your dogs be sure to make sure they are pure sourced and you know all ingredients if you decide to use oils blends.

Oils and blend that have been known to assist your pup are some of the following. Frankinsnece is a popular one for assistance with inflammation. Also if applied early enough Frankincense can help keep insect bites from getting inflamed and possibly help avoid an infection. Frankincense is a very prominent smell, not everyone likes it and you may find it overbearing. Don’t worry, there are some other options for you.

Lavender is a go too for many things, your dog is one of them. Lavender is also good for reducing inflammation, it can assist with reliving and reducing anxiety as well. Sometimes Bourbon stresses out when I have been gone to work all day, so when I’m joke at night, after his walk I’ll diffuse some lavender oil in the living room, helps both of us unwind.

Natural essential oils can be very potentant, when using it topically it is advised that you dilute it with something like a carrier oil such coconut oil. The benefits form doing that is that it reduces the potency as to not be overwhelming and the carrier oil also helps the skin slowly absorb the oils allowing them to be more effective. Next you will want to put your blend on a cotton swab before applying it to the effected area.

Side note, if you like in an area where you are worried about bug bites, get a class spray bottle, fill it with water and add a drop of wild orange, cinnamon, eucalyptus, rosemary and clove essential oils and use it as a natural bug sorry for you and your dog. I’m not at all suggesting to rely on this as sole protection from ticks and such, I still stress the use of monthly treatments for this. The essential oil mixture it to help repel some other insects that might bite your dog and cause inflammation or irritation in their skin.

If you decide you want to try essential oils, I get all my oils from dōTERRA, I’ll add a link at the bottom of this page for your to follow to see some of those products and prices, some oils can be found at your local health food store or pharmacy, but there are many that are hard to find. Before you buy some talk to your vet about the use of essential oils, they may suggest some allergy tests to make sure they aren’t allergic to the plant based of the oils you are thinking of using, and they may also be able to offer you some other great options and uses for the oils as well.

Don’t forget. Stay away from any oil or oil blends that include tea tree oil. They can be toxic to your dog if they ingest it.

SHOP HERE: If you are interested in shopping and learning more about essential oils.

When it comes to training your dogs, there are many different methods available out there for you. Some trainers will recommend the use of long lines, and others like to use devises such as e-collars. There are pros and cons to all training methods, you just really need to choose the one that works for you.

I have a 145lb mastiff, he has just gotten into his teenage stage and has started to challenge ever thing he is told. Its normal for this breed and expected. For some people where there dogs get into this stage they find themselves back to the basics with the training. I know I did, and thats ok.

When choosing a type of training tool for your dog, make sure you take their temperament and emotional stability into consideration.

E-collars are a very popular choice with many trainers. The use of them has begun to be a lot more common. Most trainers would not recommend the use of e-collars to uneducated users.

Like all tools it is important to know what you are doing with them and how to leverage it properly to achieve the training results you are desiring.

An e-collar uses different setting that is intended to shock the dog as he is anticipating to do something he isn’t suppose to in order to create a negative association with behaviours you don’t want.

Seems pretty simple, and the idea is that it is suppose to be. However the shock needs to be delivered at the right time and your dog needs to be emotionally stable enough to handle this type of training.

Bourbon my mastiff, although a big big dog wouldn’t be able to handle an e-collar, in fact the use of an e-collar would frighten him and would potentially cause him to loose trust in me. Something I definitely wouldn’t want to happen. Because of this I sourced out other tools I can use to work through training sessions that will allow me to get the results I want but also reinforce the relationship between me and Bourbon.

The option I choose to work through the training with is the use of something called a long line. Its literally a really really long leash. I have a 25ft lead for my training, but there are different lengths available out there. Choose what works for you.

The use of a long line allows you to train using leash pressure and it also gives your dig the opportunity to make the write or wrong decisions while training.

You may be wondering why you would want your dog to make a wrong decision. The use of the long line allows the dog to make a choice, if they make the wrong one you make a correction using leash pressure and a strict ‘no’.

By doing this your dog is still learning that when they decode to listen to you there is a positive response, and when the decide not to there is a negative one. With Bourbon he just like to challenge me right now for who’s the boss. When I use leash pressure to restrict his movements and to correct bad decisions he is starting to learn very quickly that I am the boss and he does need to follow my direction.

When you are starting to use a long line you want to just give the dog a little bit of slack to walk at a heel and to execute your come and heel commands. As you start to build the foundation you want to give the dog more and more slack, more opportunities to make decisions. As you create consistent positive results in your training, you will see that there will be less of a need for corrections and your dogs responses will be faster and more accurate.

At that point you can start to introduce some distractions, like another dogs or someone playing in the background. Your dogs attention will naturally be drawn to the distractions, at this point you are working with his responses to the distractions and making sure that regardless of other things going on around them, they are still choosing to put your commands first and responding to what you are asking.

The long line is the safety blanket, if your dog starts to deviate or go towards the distraction, you are able to stop him with the lead before he gets to far.

Now take that same scenario with my dog Bourbon with an e-collar. At the moment he decided the distraction was more important then listening to me, he already knows through our training that there is a correction for not following my commands, the shock form the e-collar may scare him causing him to bolt. Lose lose in results. He may or may not return because I have frightened him rather then inserting my control over his behaviours.

Im not saying e- collars dot work for many dogs, they do, they just don’t work for all dogs. Please make sure you really consider your dogs behaviours and emotional needs before deciding what training toll to use. The long line has been a great tool at home..

I use it in the home and out of the home. In the home I use the long line to train Bourbon  distance, by restricting how far away he is able to go from me he starts to learn that he is only able to have a certain distance between him and me. I had to start this training because Bourbon like to bolt out the front door every time it opened. That is dangerous for him and for people walking by. So I introduced the long line training in the home. The other benefit to the use of leash pressure is that he got a correction every time he headed for the open door. Now when the door opens, he looks at it, but doesn’t react to it.

Training results don’t happen over night and do require a lot of patience and time. Stay consistent with your methods, if you don’t get the results you want right away give it some time to see if you start to see some change. I recommend this because dogs react positively to routine, if you are constantly changing your training methods you may never see the results you want.

One step at a time… If you are using a long line for your training I would like to hear how it is coming along for you and your dog, please leave a comment below.

Happy training!!

Just as we need to bath and keep clean, our furry friends need the same thing. They don’t need showers daily by any means but they do need a regular grooming schedule to help keep them healthy. Unfortunately there is no magic grooming schedule that works for all dogs. Every breed is different, and all of them have different grooming needs.

To try and keep it simple, Im going to break down some of the basics of dog grooming to get you started. Any specific concerns you may have with your breed you can leave a comment below and ill get back to you, or you can always touch base with your breeder or vet.

Nails – cutting your dogs nails is a task, some dogs will let you do it and others wont. It is so important like most grooming things that you get your pup used to it at a younger age and have it part of their routine so that they get used to it and don’t fight you on it. Some dogs have black nails and other have white. In the white or light coloured nails it is easy to see the nerve in the nail. You don’t want to cut to short and nick the nerve as it will cause the nail to bleed, and depending on the dog it may make them afraid of getting their nails cut. For dogs with black nails you wont be able to see the nerve at all, this is where regular trimming comes into particular importance because when you don’t cut your dogs nails regularly the nerve will extend closer to the tip of the nail making it harder to trim, and of course with the dogs with black nails you wont be able to see it.

If you are nervous about trimming your pups nails your vet can walk you through it, or they can also do it for you if you prefer that. There are also many grooming shops that will do nails as part of a grooming package.

Trimming the paw hair – not all dogs have an issue with this, this is mainly for dogs that have longer hair. Breeds like Golden Retrievers and Poodles that grow longer hair need this done. The reason for this is because the hair as it grows longer can get knotted and that can become very uncomfortable in between the pads of their feet. In the winter this hair will also collect tons of snow and it can create balls of ice that can cause a lot of pain to them as they walk. Just like trimming their nails, having your pup used to you handling their feet is key to a pleasant experience grooming them. And with the use of scissors it will be safer for you and them as well.

Shaving and hair trims – This is also a breed specific thing. For example Poodles need their faces shaves to keep long hairs form getting into their eyes and causing weeping. And it is also part of the poodle look. Shaving the face is something that is usually done every 4 to 6 weeks depending on how long you are willing to let the hair grow between trims.

Some breeds like Golden Retrievers will get feathered hair growth around the feet and along the legs and belly, some of this trimming is more cosmetic then a necessity. The trimming around the feet is important, trimming back the feathered hairs up the legs and across the belly isn’t. Although when its done they do look very pretty, or handsome 🙂

One more thing to consider, and keep in mind, if you have a dog with long hair, you may also want to keep an eye on the hair in their ears, it can also get knotted and cause ear infections, you should talk to your vet or your breeder about best practices to take care of that hair.

Ear cleaning – as mentioned earlier, ear cleaning for dogs with longer hair does have more involved. For dogs with shorter hair, just keep an eye on the ears when bathing and if they spend some time in water outside of the home, trapped water in the ears can cause some nasty infections.

Bathing – Bathing can ce a real project, some pups don’t mind at all and others hate it. I made sure to make bathing a very fun and positive experience when was little so now that he’s 145lbs when its bath time he is more then happy to jump into the tub and let me wash him. I like to use an all natural puppy shampoo for my dogs, it is easier on them if you have to bath them a bit more often if your dog is anything like mine and always gets into something dirty…

For a regular routine, every few months is usually good for most breeds, for breeds with longer hair a good brush before and after is a best practice to get rid of any extra hair, and to cut down on matts.

Brushing – You can brush dogs with shorter hair, however it isn’t really a necessity like dogs with longer hair. Seasonal grooming is a lot of work, so during the shedding seasons if you are taking a few min each day to groom it will make a major difference in the home. Grooming your pup can also be a bonding time for you and them, so try not to look at it so much as a choir.

For dogs with shorter hair you will want to have a brush with a softer bristle, and then you will want to have a stronger one for dogs with longer thicker hair.

If grooming is something that you have no interest in doing, there are some great packages available out there for you in the market place. Do some research and check out the facility before you leave your pup there, you want to be sure that grooming is a positive experience for them, especially when they will be left with strangers.

Teeth cleaning – now to some this may seem strange but brushing your dogs teeth can go a long way. Smaller breeds usually have more issues with their teeth then larger breeds, but brushing their teeth either way is a good step to ensuring their health. With small breeds decay and build up on their teeth can lead to major health issues like heart disease. If the build up is left to long, regular brushing wont correct the issues, you will have to have the vet put them under and surgically clean the teeth.

Pets store have a variety of products you can use to help with dental health. You can buy a tooth brush and tooth paste for weekly brushing, and if you would like you can also give them different chews that will help with keeping their teeth clean.

Keeping your dog groomed can be a problem, and Cherrybrook has the solution. Cherrybrook.com offers Cherrybrook Dog Grooming Solution products, including professional-grade shears, shampoo and more, for both professionals and pet owners alike. Shop now!

The process of grooming your pup is a big part of their overall health and well being, it is important for all pet parents to insure they can keep their pup groomed, healthy and happy. I hope I was able to help answer any questions you may have had about grooming but if you do need any further help, or have any questions leave me a comment below…

Happy grooming 🙂

There is a lot more to taking care of your puppy then just buying them toys and treats, and giving them lots of cuddles. I’m sure you already knew that…

Another big part to make sure your puppy lives a longer and happier life is to make sure that they get all their vaccinations as well. When you adopt your pup or bring them home from a breeder it is important to find out what shots they have had and when they have had them so that you can continue the vaccination schedule when you get your puppy home.

The first set of shots usually happen between 6-8 weeks old, then you will have some at 9-11 weeks, 12-14 weeks, 16-17 weeks, and then 12months old, so really it is approximately every 2-4 weeks until they are about 17 weeks old. This may seem like a lot, and very inconvenient.. And yes I agree with you it is a lot ot keep track of, but honestly it is so important to make sure you protect your dog from many of the viruses these vaccines protect them from. Some of the viruses are deadly and others can make your pup very ill. Getting them vaccinated is the first line of defense as they grow up into an active member in your family.

If you have a puppy that was adopted and has no vaccination records your vet may suggest to start the process from scratch to be sure they have everything they need to protect themselves. If you have any further concerns your vet is the best source for treatments and action plans.

The best decisions are educated ones, let’s look at some of the viruses and illnesses you are protecting your puppy against when you get them vaccinated. I will list them alphabetically so it is easier to follow along with;

Bordetella – This bacteria is the basic cause of kennel cough. It causes severe fits of coughing, vomiting, whooping, and in some cases seizures and death. This bacterium is highly communicable. For this vaccine you have the choice between an injectable or spray version.

Canine Distemper – This is a serious and dangerous disease that spreads from animal to animal through airborne exposure. It affects many animals other than dogs. This very contagious disease is caused by a virus that attacks the respiratory, GI and nervous system of the animal. Along with the spread by airborne, it can also be contracted from food and water dishes that the infected animal was in contact with. Distemper has a nasty set of symptoms, it causes vomiting, diarrhea, discharge from the eyes and nose, fever, coughing, twitching, seizures, paralysis and often death.

Unfortunately there is no cure for distemper. The infected animal can can shed the virus for months. The treatment of this disease is supportive care to try and support the immune system to fight off a secondary disease and many of the symptoms of distemper. The hope of these treatments if the dog survives the illness is also to boost the immune system enough that the dog may able to fight it off.

Canine Hepatitis – another viral and highly contagious disease, this one affects the liver, kidneys, spleen lungs and the eyes. This is another disease with no cure, however doctors can treat the symptoms. It is not the same as hepatitis that humans get. Dogs can overcome the more mild version of the virus, but the more severe one can kill them.

symptoms include slight fever, congestion and vomiting, jaundice, stomach enlargement and pain around the liver. As mentioned, there is not cure for the disease, but if your dog does get this disease there are treatments for the systems.

Canine Parainfluenza – this is another virus that contribute to kennel cough

Heartworm – heartworm prevention is something all pet parents hear abut from there vet all the time. It is one of those things that many dog owners forget to follow upon or stay consistent with. It is important to know there is no vaccine for this infection however there is prevention from regular medicine.

Just as the name is descriptive, these worms grow in the right side of the heart and travel through the arteries sometimes even effecting the liver and kidneys. These worms can grow up to 14″long and id they grow in clumps can block or damage the organs.

This disease is transmitted by mosquitos, in the early stages symptoms start mild, your dog may seem lethargic, have a lower appetite, may have a cough, and tires more easily after minimal exercise. If you are concerned about your dog having heart worm, you can have your vet conduct a blood test to see if it is in fact infected.

Kennel Cough – this disease is a result of inflammation in the upper airways. It can be caused by a number of different bacterial and viral infections. Usually the disease is mild and cause spouts of harsh and dry coughing. A more sever for can cause vomiting gagging and loss of appetite. In rare cases it can be deadly. Kennel cough spreads easily between dogs in close quarters which is why is can pass very quickly through a kennel. You can talk to your vet about different forms of treatment for this.

Leptospirosis – This is a disease caused by bacteria, and unlike most others, some dogs can go without showing any symptoms. It is found in soils and water, and it is one of those diseases that can be spread from animals to humans. Antibiotics are found effective for this and the sooner they are given the better. When and if symptoms of this disease do appear it can cause fever, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, sever lethargy, weakness, loss of appetite, stiffness, muscle pain, infertility, and kidney failure.

Lyme Disease – This is an infection cause by a tick, and is transmitted by a tick. It does not have the symptoms of a human that may be suffering from the disease. An infected dog will often start to limp, their temperature will rise and they will loose their appetite. The disease among other things can affect his heart, kidney and joints, and if left untreated can lead to neurological disorders. antibiotics has shown to be very succceful however relapses months and even years later can occur.

Parvovirus – also known as Parvo is a disease that affects all dogs, and puppies that are un-vaccinated and under four months are at the highest risk for contracting this virus. It is a very contagious virus that attacks the GI system and creates symptoms such as vomiting, loss of appetite, fever and sometimes sevier bloody diarrhea. Sevier dehydration can come on quickly and can kill the dog within 48-72 hours, swift treatment from your vet will be needed and is crucial to their survival. There is no cure, but there is treatment for the symptoms that will also support the immune system helping the dog beat the virus.

Rabies – this is one of those diseases we usually hear about in wild animals, however it can affect your dig if it is bitten by an animal that is infected by rabies. An animal that is infected with have the symptoms of headaches, anxiety, hallucinations, excessive drooling, fear of water, paralysis and death. It is important that you seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible as time for the spread of the virus is crucial in the survival of your dog, if your not able to get your dog to a vet within the first few hours of it being bitten death is highly likely.

It is important to always consult with your vet about your vaccination options and make a plan that works for you. An educated pet parent makes for a happier and healthier puppy. Remember there is no cut and dry vaccination schedule, different dogs living in different areas will need different things, the guide we will be looking is merely a suggestion to get your thinking about what you may need for your puppy.

Lets look at the vaccination schedule you should consider….

Important to know, there are some vaccines that are given as a combo shot, like the DHLPPC or DHPP, which is to help protect your puppy against Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, Parvo, and Corona.

The schedule below is from the AKC website for your reference..

The first year is the most expensive when it comes to vaccinating. After that you will have to do the yearly rabies shots and if you want there are yearly vaccines you can do as well. Some verts agree with doing them and other do not. This is another thing you can discuss with your vet and decide is vaccinating every year is something you want to do… But remember, the rabies is mandated by law and you have to get your dog vaccinated every year.

If you wonder about the exact cost I do find it really varies from vet to vet, If you are concerned before you bring a puppy home you can always reach out to your vet ahead of time and they can prepare you for the cost for the first years a vaccine.

I hope I was able to help you with your vaccine questions, if you have any more, just drop a comment below…

Every day there are dogs that are mistreated and rescued by the SPCA. These dogs need help from the public in order to get the second chance at the better life they deserve. Supporting a local SPCA is one of those things that more pet owners and non pet owners should be doing.

When you are thinking of adding a new member to your family I really encourage you to check your local SPCA. One of my very first dogs as a child was from the SPCA and still today we talk about her and smile, she was one of the best dogs we ever had.

Growing up my mom took part in a partnership program with the SPCA where we would bring rescues home and help rehabilitate them so they could be re-homed into their forever home. I remember times when we had 6 dogs running around. As a kid I though I had the best mom ever, bringing home all sorts of dogs all the time. I never knew what they went through before we got them, but I was happy we got to bring them all home. As we got older my mom told my sister and I a little bit more about why she would bring dogs home for a few weeks and then they would go away. Now as an adult I am so happy we got to be apart of that process.

I am not suggesting you go that far. It is not an easy thing to do, it can be very expensive, not to mention it is a lot! of work!… But I would like you to think about donating some food every once in a while, maybe volunteer to take dogs for walks. Go to the SPCA and ask them what kind of support programs they have and try to take part.

I have shared some stories about some rescues on the about me page. I would also love to hear any stories you might have about a rescue or an adoption you were apart of…

Dogs bond with their litter mates and other dogs through play, it is no different with their human. Never underestimate the power of play with your pup….

Playing with your pup can do a number of things;

• Give them much needed exercise,
• It keeps them busy,
• Theirs bonding time,
• You help them learn manners and boundaries,
• It can help to prep them for training time,
• And of course just generally make them happy.

Much needed exercise – exercise is so so important for your dogs well being. We usually leave our dogs at home all day while we are at work. A lot of us don’t realize how stressful that can be for them, and how bored then can get. Taking them for a walk or spending some time playing in the backyard in the morning as part of their routine will not only help them relax while you are gone but will also help with how hyper they are when you get home. Not to mention the added bonus of keeping them healthy through a regular exercise routine.

Keep them busy – when your pup has their fill of exercise and engagement through activity, they are less likely to look for things to get into. For example when your pup has their own toys and they are rewarded regularly by you playing with them together, they are more likely to continue to do so on their own time rather then look for things to chew on like your shoes or a couch…

Bonding time – building a relationship with your pet is something we all want, that is why we got the pup in the first place isn’t it? playful interaction is one of the best ways to build that bond.

Learn manners and boundaries – when your pup is with their litter mates their brothers and sister teach them how to interact and play. They learn when they are being to rough, or when they are hurting their siblings. They do this through playing with each other. You are usually bringing your puppy home between 8-10 weeks old, at this age there is still plenty to learn. You can continue this teaching when you bring your pup home, it will help with training and your pup will grow to respect you as well.

Prep them for training time – attempting to train and teach your pup new tricks when they are full of energy will end with you being frustrated. They will spend more time doing everything you don’t want them to do rather then learning. Next time you want to do some training, take your pup for a walk or play a bit first to help reduce some of that excess energy. Then when you go to do some training you will get a much better response, you can also reward the training session with some more play after. Your pup will really feel like they did something right and will be much more interested in doing this process again the next time. The key is consistency.

Happy puppy happy life – this really speaks for itself. Anyone who comes from a pet family has experience those trouble makes that get into things, chew on everything they are not suppose too and generally cause havoc in the house. Most of the time this is a result of a bored dog. Fixing the habits once they have been created is harder, so start with a healthy exercise and interactive routine early and the chances of this behavior developing is way less likely.

The best toys to use for this interaction are ones that involve both you and your pet. A good tennis ball, a Kong, a rope toy, are just a few of the toys you can use to play. The friendship that will evolve from this time you are spending will be really rewarding, your dog will build a bond with you that will help in many ways… I really encourage all pet parents to take the time